liquid assets
AFTERNOON TEA
Enjoying a proper beverage in an elegant setting.
WRITTEN BY SUE EDMONDSON
PHOTO BY JAMIE KINGHAM
The term “high tea” conjures images of members of royalty sipping tea served in china cups by hand maidens. In fact, when it originated in 17th century England, high tea (or “meat” tea, as it often was called) was the evening meal for everyone, rich or poor.
According to Peggy Tavener, one of the area’s pre-eminent tea etiquette experts who has hosted a number of high tea events in the area, over time and across continents, high tea was known as “afternoon tea” in Victorian England, with its lighter fare elegantly served and enjoyed only by the wealthy. Whatever you choose to call it, you’ll definitely want to have it at The Isles in Reno, where it’s served 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. each Sunday. Only its hours aren’t traditional: historically, teas, a leisurely late lunch, weren’t held until 4 p.m. Everything else mirrors the centuries-old practices.
The Isles is housed in a Craftsman bungalow and designed to create a feeling of intimacy.
“I wanted a place where people could sit, have a conversation, and share food in a comfortable setting,” says owner Terry Fegan.
That’s certainly what The Isles is. Dining areas are separate and cozy. Try the one in back, where overstuffed chairs and small round tables add an element of refinement.
Tables are set with china plates and silverware wrapped in linen napkins. High Tea starts with Barry’s Gold Blend Irish tea, served in a porcelain pot on a silver tray.
“The dark black tea offsets the sweets,” explains Tom McCormick, Fegan’s brother and The Isles’ shortbread and scone baker.
Finger Foods
Next come the delicacies, arranged on a three-tiered china stand. The bottom tray always holds a selection of finger sandwiches, crusts removed. Traditional triangles of cucumber and watercress with cream cheese, or roast beef with horseradish butter may share the limelight with those of goat cheese with baby spinach or smoked salmon with aioli mustard.
The middle tier holds scones, complemented by clotted cream, jam, and lemon curd on the side. The top and smallest plate holds the sweets — a buttery shortbread, apple teacake, strawberries, chocolate “digestive” cookies, and truffles.
While the food is delicious, the true pleasure of the experience is the luxury of time to relax and chat with old friends or new.
Freelance writer Sue Edmondson writes for various Nevada and California publications.
Recipe
Tom McCormick’s Shortbread
(serves 12)
¼ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup brown sugar
½ pound butter
¾ tablespoon vanilla
2 cups white flour
Cream sugars and butter together. Add flour and mix until grainy. Add vanilla, and mix well. Put dough into an 8-inch pan, and press softly (“or edges will be as hard as a rock”) until top is smooth. Bake at 350 degrees F for 20 minutes or until top is slightly brown. Cool and enjoy!
Area High-Tea Events
Nevada Women’s History Project celebrates women’s right to vote with an annual Pink Tea in late spring at the Governor’s Mansion in Carson City.
“Pink teas weren’t really teas at all,” says NWHP biographer Kay Sanders. “When women tried to meet about gaining the right to vote, men would disrupt the meetings. The women then started calling their meetings ‘teas’ and decorated everything in pink to ensure men wouldn’t attend. It worked.”
The event is open to the public. Period costumes are welcome. For date and price, visit http://www.Unr.edu/nwhp.
Sparks Museum and Cultural Center is planning a Titanic-themed, mystery tea-party fundraiser in April, and hosts a Victorian Tea each year in November, organized by local tea etiquette expert Peggy Tavener. For details, visit http://www.Sparksmuseum.org or call 775-355-1144.
Too Soul Tea Co. offers tea samples anytime, but holds special tea samplings monthly. “There’s so much diversity and flavor in tea,” says co-owner Staci Parker. “You’ll be surprised how you’ll develop a palate for teas, much the same as people do with wine.” For details, visit 542½ Plumas St., Reno, http://www.Toosoulteaco.com, or call 775-322-2001.
High Tea at The Isles is served 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. each Sunday and comes complete with tea, scones, assorted tea sandwiches, and sweets or fruit. For details, visit 809 S. Center St., Reno, http://www.Theisles.biz, or call 775-384-1804.
Coffeebar offers a variety of tea-tasting and pairing events. Education about the benefits and varieties of teas is part of the fun. For details, visit 10120 Jibboom St., Truckee, http://www.Coffeebartruckee.com, or call 530-587-2000.
Elixart is a combination tea bar and art gallery that offers tea cuppings, where customers experience the aroma of a variety of teas. “You’ll smell the different notes,” says owner Colter Merrick. For details, visit 408 Broad St., Ste. 8, Nevada City, http://www.Elixart.net, or call 530-265-1901.
Through A Child’s Eyes Foundation hosts themed, Victorian tea parties, courtesy of Cathe Faretto. The themed spring tea and November’s Holiday Nutcracker Sugar Plum Fairy Enchanted Tea are held in Yerington, Nev. Entertainment adds to the enjoyment. Dress for a tea party. For details, call 775-463-4963 or visit http://www.Arts4nevada.org or http://www.Throughachildseyesfoundation.com.
