edible notables
SPRING LAMB
Local ranchers and grocers offer tips for enjoying the delicacy.
WRITTEN BY MARNIE MCARTHUR
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SUSAN TANGEMAN
Ah, spring … the time of rebirth. Lambs, born each spring here in Northern Nevada, seem natural symbols for the season.
But, contrary to popular belief, any local grass-fed lamb found on the Easter or Passover table this spring likely has been in the freezer since fall, when the lamb actually got to market.
At the 150-year-old Hulsman Ranch in Susanville, Calif., Hannah and Susan Tangeman, whose grandfather started the farm, define spring as “chasing the grass.”
“Lambing begins mid-January and extends into mid-March, so they can eat the spring grasses,” Tangeman says. “The lambs are on mother’s milk until grass season. Harvest is summer into fall, and products go to market in August, until we sell out in December or January.”
The cycle is roughly the same at Albaugh Ranch in Fallon. Fifth-generation rancher Norris Albaugh keeps his lambs on mother’s milk and grass until harvest. For Scott Huber at Reno’s Kenland Farms, twice-yearly lambing produces lambs sold for 4-H projects in January, and pasture-raised lambs for sale to individuals and restaurants in the fall.
The prevailing thought of most ranchers is that the longer that lambs stay on the mother, the more nutritious the meat. Milk- and grass-fed diets produce meat with more beta-carotene, omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamin E. In winter, the mothers eat hay produced on the ranches, and none of the animals is fed grain or supplemented with hormones or antibiotics.
“Grass is the natural food for the animal,” Tangeman says. “Their bodies are wired to break down the cellulose. Meat flavor comes from the type of grass they eat, much like terroir in wine. Animals raised in pasture are not stressed, and this too contributes to tastier meat.”
Butcher Pointers
When it comes to taste, Mike Holcomb at Wolf Pack Meats agrees with the adage, “You are what you eat,” adding that the age of the animal and the cut of meat are additional factors contributing to taste.
“Meat close to the bone, such as the leg or shank, has a stronger taste, while ground lamb is milder. Older animals have a more robust flavor; the younger ones are less gamey,” he says.
Albaugh contends that lanolin in sheep’s wool contributes to the gamey, robust flavor preferred by some, and that hair sheep, such as the Dorper, have a more mellow taste.
Great Basin Community Food Co-op in Reno buys lamb from both Hulsman and Albaugh Ranches.
“Since it comes in frozen, we are able to hold onto it for longer. I hope that we can carry local lamb year-round,” says Manager Amber Sallaberry. Looking ahead, she says, the co-op plans to buy from another local producer, Damonte Ranch in Reno, in 2014.
Purchasing Choices
An alternative way to purchase local lamb is through membership in a community-supported agriculture program, in which members get to know the farmer and exactly how the animals are raised. Several small CSA farms that raise sheep in Reno, Dayton, and Silver Springs are listed on https://ediblerenotahoe.com and http://www.Nevadagrown.com.
Another option for people with adequate freezer space is to purchase the whole animal directly from a local ranch. This is quite cost effective, as you’ll end up with twice the meat at half the price. While the USDA recommends four to six months in the freezer, most local suppliers and sellers are confident in pushing that envelope.
“In an ideal world you would want to eat fresh,” Albaugh says, “but in reality, if you use the meat within a year, you should have a good quality product.”
Tangeman encourages the enjoyment of lamb all year long.
“I feel lamb is season-less,” she says. “People are becoming more comfortable eating lamb and are looking for more opportunities to enjoy its unique flavor.”
After researching this article, writer Marnie McArthur has become a convert to locally raised, grass-fed lamb. No more buying chops and ribs from as far away as New Zealand, even though their fall is our spring.
RESOURCES
Hulsman Ranch
Susanville
Hannah Tangeman
530-257-7262
Hulsmanranch@frontiernet.net
Albaugh Ranch
Fallon
Norris and Suzie Albaugh
775-423-3361
http://www.Albaughranch.comv
Kenland Farms
Reno
Scott Huber
775-544-1163
For a list of other Northern Nevada ranchers, visit https://ediblerenotahoe.com and http://www.Nevadagrown.com
Where to buy locally raised lamb (in season late summer through December)
Great Basin Community Food Co-op
240 Court St., Reno
775-324-6133, http://www.Greatbasinfood.coop
New Moon Natural Foods
11357 Donner Pass Road, Truckee
530-587-7426
505 W. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City
530-583-7426, http://www.Newmoonnaturalfoods.com
The Health Nut
2204 Main St., Susanville
530-257-5800, http://www.Healthnutlassen.com
Johnstonville Quality Foods
472-850 Johnstonville Road, Susanville
530-257-4268
Quincy Natural Foods Co-op
269 Main St., Quincy
530-283-3528, http://www.Qnf.weebly.com
Lupines Natural Foods
301 Crescent St., Greenville
530-284-6959, Lupines.biz
Farmers’ markets in Quincy, Susanville, and other areas
RECIPES
Lamb, Balsamic, and Sundried Tomato Meatloaf
(courtesy of Suzanne Albaugh, Albaugh Ranch in Fallon. Serves 4 – 8, depending on portion size)
1 lemon
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
½ cup rolled oats, optional
2 large shallots, finely chopped
½ cup sundried tomatoes, chopped
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped
½ pound ground lamb, or 1 pound if not using oats
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Using a vegetable peeler, remove two strips of zest from the lemon and thinly slice on a diagonal. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Stir in oats, if using. Add garlic, shallots, sundried tomatoes, rosemary, and lemon zest. Mix to combine. Add lamb and mix just until incorporated. Transfer mixture to prepared baking sheet and shape into a 9 by 3½-inch loaf. Bake until the internal temperature registers 150 degrees F, about 40 to 45 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing.
Curried Ground Lamb Barley Risotto
(courtesy of Hulsman Ranch Kitchen. Serves 4)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 yellow onion
1 pound ground lamb
Salt and pepper to taste
2 teaspoons curry powder, or more to taste
1 cup organic whole grain barley
2½ cups liquid of choice (red or white wine, water, beef or chicken broth, or a combination)
Add olive oil to a heavy Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until tender. Add ground lamb to brown. Add barley and briefly sauté with the meat. Stir in liquid, lower heat, and tightly cover with lid to simmer. Try not to open lid for at least 20 minutes. Continue to reduce liquid until mixture is slightly thickened. Serve immediately.
Hannah’s Lamb Favorites
(courtesy of Hulsman Ranch Kitchen)
The following marinades can be used on all chops, shoulders, legs, ribs, and loins.
Standby Marinade
1/4 cup olive oil
Juice of one lemon
Minced garlic to taste
Pinch of salt and fresh ground pepper
Mix all ingredients for marinade. Marinate lamb for at least an hour in a plastic bag to combine flavors. Remove lamb from bag and grill, broil, or pan fry to desired doneness.
Standard Reserve Marinade
Equal parts soy sauce and red wine (should be a drinkable red wine)
Minced garlic to taste
Combine ingredients and marinate at least 15 minutes or up to several hours. Grill, broil, or pan fry to desired doneness.
Note: Hannah Tangeman’s philosophy for cooking lamb: The use of moderate temperatures creates a more flavorful and moist result.
