Fall 2022 | Edible Travel

Beeline to Berkeley

East Bay city features great eats, beats, brews, and flora.

Yearning for a getaway full of delicious dishes and drinks? Make a beeline to Berkeley.

After an easy, three-hour drive from Reno-Tahoe (or one-hour flight to Oakland) you arrive in a culturally diverse, art-rich city that caters to your every food-and-drink whim. Berkeley is urban but roped in by nature, from the watery bay on one side to the tree-filled hills on the other.

First, book your room at the new Residence Inn by Marriott Berkeley (opened in December 2021) in the city’s heart, within walking distance of stellar restaurants, funky shops, and galleries. My corner suite featured floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sparkling bay, busy streets, and downtown Oakland’s tall buildings.

You’ll want to extend your stay when you see the full kitchen with refrigerator, dishwasher, and stove, in addition to the plentiful glassware and dishes, and cozy dining and living room. The comfortable bedroom beckons you to sleep in. The hotel is a true value, as breakfast is included.

Once you settle in, head up to the Study Hall bar on the rooftop to sip a cocktail, soak up the rays on the deck, and savor gorgeous views that feature the University of California, Berkeley campus sports fields and landmark clock, as well as hills and tree-lined neighborhoods.

Great Concert Venue
I timed my trip with a concert at the great outdoor Greek Theatre. It’s an easy walk from the hotel to the venue, on a path that meanders through campus. After the show, I headed to Jupiter for beer and wood-fired pizza. If one is available, snag a seat in the prized beer garden. I had planned to enjoy a nightcap at Tupper & Reed but was too tired from the day’s activities. If you crave innovative cocktails, put it on the list.

In the morning, I found MY Coffee Roastery — housed in what looks like a weathered European cottage — and ordered a sublime orange blossom latte. From there I walked through the bustling Saturday Downtown Berkeley Farmers’ Market to brunch, landing at Gather restaurant. You can sit inside the large, open room, but the outdoor dining area steals the show. It feels like you’re inside a refashioned greenhouse. Sit at a wooden table, surrounded by metal art pieces and flanked by ferns and other greenery, and soak up the hippie vibe, which is accented by live or recorded classic rock music. Gather’s menus highlight local, organic, sustainable, and ethical ingredients. I ordered the flavorful falafel and eggs dish, topped with romesco sauce, and a refreshing mimosa.

Bountiful Botanical Garden
A highlight of the trip was a visit to the University of California Botanical Garden nestled in the Berkeley hills. Unless you’re ready for a workout, don’t brave the 40-minute walk from the hotel to the garden like I did; take an Uber or Lyft instead. Sweaty and tired from the climb, I was rewarded with a fascinating educational tour of the 34-acre property. I learned about the garden’s rich history and how it’s used for research and classroom lessons today.

You’ll relish the rich South African and South American collections, but the largest area is the California section. Some of my favorite features were the Chinese medicinal herb garden; Crops of the World exhibit, which reflected food of Native Americans as well; and the cycad and palm garden. And be sure to see whatever is blooming when you visit, such as the stunning turquoise puya blooming the day I arrived. The botanical garden has an extensive collection of wild-collected plants from around the world, including a towering sequoia grove planted in 1930. It’s open year-round, but check the schedule to make sure it’s not closed for pruning or a special event.

After all that walking I was ready to lounge with a glass of wine in Berkeley’s Wine Block, which features half a dozen wineries with open tasting rooms. All make wine using natural techniques. I tasted wines at Donkey & Goat, which has an expansive back patio perfect for sipping in the sun and snacking on a selection of charcuterie, cheeses, and accoutrements; Hammerling Wines, known for low-intervention sparkling wines (but the Roadside Picnic pinot noir was my favorite); and Vinca Minor, with a friendly staff and casual picnic tables to share with other guests. Reservations are required for most of the wineries.

Coffee and Sake
Speaking of drinks, if you like coffee, you’ll be inundated with choices. But if you’re a fan of coffee history, you might want to visit the original Peet’s Coffee & Tea location on Shattuck Avenue (opened in 1966). And if you like sake, attempt to visit Takara Sake. (As of press time, it was closed for in-person tastings, but check back as it may reopen.) It’s the largest sake distillery in the country.

Speaking of Japanese gems, for dinner, I had an outstanding experience at Fish & Bird Sousaku Izakaya. The modern Japanese restaurant is situated in a big space with soaring ceilings. I slid into a pillow-packed booth and ordered a bevy of tapas-style dishes such as super-fresh sashimi, wagyu saikoro steak, and grilled black cod from Half Moon Bay. The restaurant’s cocktails are carefully curated as well. If you like whiskey drinks, try the whole new world (with bourbon, rye, cognac, pineapple gomme, allspice dram, and orange and Angostura bitters). The chefs and bartenders use local, seasonal, sustainable ingredients as well as the best quality products from Japan for both kitchen and bar creations. After a full day and full belly, I decided to return to the hotel to relax.

The next day I woke up to another crystal-clear Berkeley morning. On the way to the freeway to head home, I visited the Fourth Street area to shop in the eclectic stores and dine at Oceanview Diner for savory eggs and decadent pancakes. Nearby, check out the East Bay Vivarium for a weird and wonderful detour (if reptiles don’t make you squeamish). It’s touted as the nation’s oldest and largest reptile store.

For a unique and satisfying vacation, Berkeley hits all the right spots.

RESOURCES:

Donkey & Goat Donkeyandgoat.com
Fish & Bird Sousaku Izakaya Fishbirdizakaya.com
Fourth Street Berkeley Fourthstreet.com
Gather Restaurant Gatherberkeley.com
Greek Theatre Thegreektheatreberkeley.com
Hammerling Wines Hammerlingwines.co
Jupiter Jupiterbeer.com
MY Coffee Roastery Mycoffeeroastery.com
Oceanview Diner Oceanviewonfourth.com
Peet’s Coffee & Tea Find Peet’s Coffee & Tea – Shattuck on Facebook
Residence Inn Berkeley Marriott.com/en-us/hotels/oakrr-residence-inn-berkeley
Saturday Downtown Berkeley Farmers’ Market Ecologycenter.org/fm
Study Hall Rooftop Lounge Studyhallrooftoplounge.com
Takara Sake Takarasake.com
Tupper & Reed Tupperandreed.com
University of California Botanical Garden Botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu
Vinca Minor Vincaminorwine.com
Visit Berkeley Visitberkeley.com