Meat up at these eight great Reno-Tahoe barbecue joints.
Summertime is synonymous with barbecue — probably because it’s too dang hot to stay in the kitchen and turn on the oven. The formula is simple: heat + meat + time = summer’s perfect meal.
Yet the word “barbecue” is much more than the sum of its parts. It means family reunions, Fourth of July picnics, and sticky fingers at backyard gatherings. A whiff of charcoal smoke evokes some of our favorite memories.
Perhaps that’s why we love it so much. According to a 2023 study of the most popular meal type, barbecue was second only to pizza as the world’s most popular type of meal.
So in honor of summer, for you, our readers, this intrepid reporter rolled up her sleeves, packed her glove compartment full of Wet-naps, loosened up her pants, and hit the road to take on the dirty job of uncovering some of the finest locally owned barbecue joints in the Reno-Tahoe area.
1) BJ’s Nevada Barbecue Co.
Now in its 38th year, this family-owned Sparks restaurant has arguably set the bar for great local barbecue. It’s won eight awards at the annual Best In The West Nugget Rib Cook Off in Sparks, including a first place in 2022, as well as being named Best Barbecue Restaurant in the Reno News & Review’s Best of Reno reader poll in 2023.
Owner/chef Jay Rathmann describes his barbecue as Nevada style — an amalgamation of Texas, Kansas City, and Southern.
“What sets us apart is that everything we make is proprietary. So the only place you’re going to get it is here — our cheese sauce, all of our soups, all of our sauces,” Rathmann says. “We don’t make the onion rings, the potato salad, or the chicken strips. Those are the only three items that we don’t produce. Everything else, we actually physically make.”
And when I sit down to enjoy a barbecue feast piled high with a half slab of pork ribs, a half pound of sliced beef brisket, and a half pound of BJ’s hot links with dirty rice prepared with pork, creamy grits, and cornbread (and a sweet tea, obviously), I can definitely taste what he means.
BJ’s serves St. Louis ribs, so they’re meaty and tender. Rathmann and his kitchen staff prepare the ribs with a dry rub only, opting to serve the ribs dry so the customer can add as much or as little sauce as they like. Mine were extremely tender, with large hunks of meat full of smoky flavor, with a crispy exterior. I enjoyed them with the medium sauce (they’re available in mild, medium, and hot), which has a rich, tangy, tomatoey flavor, with a pleasant salty spiciness and a touch of heat.
My brisket — a meat that’s notoriously difficult to cook well and often ends up overly chewy and flavorless — was tender, moist, and thinly sliced. The flavor needs no embellishment; it’s delicious without sauce, though I love it with a touch of the rich, smoky bourbon sauce, which contains molasses and brown sugar, for just a touch of sweetness.
But my personal favorite is the house-made hot links, which are tangy and sweet, with only a smidge of heat. Unlike many sausages, which can be chewy or even fatty, these have a smooth, melt-in-your-mouth texture. They’re indescribably good.
2) The Phoenix
The new kid on the block in Sparks is slinging some of its own impressive ’cue. Owners Dave and Debby Heffern, owners of the former Hellfire Saloon in South Reno, opened The Phoenix at The Outlets at Legends in summer 2022. It’s one of the only area venues doing full-service dining and offering live music every weekend.
Dave describes the barbecue offerings as Texas pit, “not sauced up”; chef James Gillette uses a crafted dry rub that imbues tons of flavor, so little sauce is needed. The ribs, brisket, and pulled pork smoke low and slow, at 225 degrees F, for 12 to 14 hours.
“People ask, ‘What’s your secret?’ Patience,” he says.
The St. Louis ribs at The Phoenix are the stuff of daydreams (no kidding, those of us at our table of three that day have been pining for them ever since). They’re incredibly tender, with a seasoned outer crust that adds depth of flavor. Not a drop of sauce is needed.
While the brisket is delicious, I’m especially fond of the candied brisket, which is served on grilled sourdough with provolone and Swiss cheese, topped with caramelized onions. Gillette uses what he calls “our house candy sauce,” which is a savory/sweet sauce that caramelizes and further sweetens when cooked, creating almost a syrup that moistens and flavors the beef.
And don’t skip the sides — the million-dollar mac is a creamy, heavenly delight made with a blend of five cheeses and topped with bacon, green onions, and grated Parmesan. And the French fries, cut uniquely for The Phoenix, are flavorful and remarkably crispy, making a great accompaniment to lots of sauce and meat.
If there’s room for dessert, try chef Gillette’s new beignets. I had mine with blackberry compote and homemade vanilla ice cream. Divine!
3) Bone Appetit Bar-B-Que Grill
Lamont and Kim Daniels opened this barbecue joint inside Reno Public Market in January 2023, though the business got its start eight years ago, when the couple still lived in Las Vegas.
“We entertained a lot for our family and friends, and we’d always do barbecue,” Lamont says. “They were like, “You guys should do barbecue for a business, and I was like, ‘OK!’”
They purchased a food truck and began selling their offerings. Later, when they relocated to Reno to be closer to family, a brick-and-mortar addition to their food truck business made sense. The concept was such a hit that they recently purchased a second truck and can typically be found at the area’s food truck events.
Bone Appetit is distinctive for several features. First, its salad bar offers fresh, crisp produce, a nice contrast to the meat-laden dishes. Everything here is handmade, including the sauces, sides, and ranch dressing on the salad bar. The barbecue is Southern style, a blend of features found in Texas, Memphis, and Carolina styles. Sauce plays a heavy role, and its tangy sweetness packs major flavor into every bite. There’s no dry meat here — everything is moist and flavorful, from the ribs, whose meat easily pulled off the bones when I touched my fork to them, to the barbecue sandwich, piled so high with pulled pork and slaw, you need a knife and fork to eat it.
And let’s talk about that slaw, which is unlike any I’ve ever had — a cilantro-lime slaw that has the cool crunch you want next to your barbecue, but with a light, lime-vinegar base and sprinkle of cilantro that makes it feel light, bright, and refreshing. The potato salad, also not mayonnaise-heavy, has thick chunks of potato with plenty of mustard stirred in. The mac and cheese is like what your grandma might have made, extra thick and Cheddary, with a layer of baked cheese on top.
4) Brothers Barbecue
Operating from a little converted house on Center Street in Midtown Reno, Brothers is a 600-pound gorilla in Nevada’s barbecue scene. The business recently ranked No. 30 on Yelp’s list of the Top 100 BBQ Spots in the nation for 2024.
The Texas-style business is owned by Joe and Meagan Orduna and was named for Joe’s early aspirations of starting a barbecue business with his brother. Though that never came to fruition, the vibe at Brothers is certainly family oriented, right down to the old-fashioned picnic tables outside that make you feel like you’re at a friend’s house for a summer cookout.
The ribs here are so tender they pull effortlessly off the bone. Because the barbecue is Texas style, dry rub is the name of the game — the ribs get only a light drizzle of sauce just before they’re served, adding a sweet juiciness that’s hard to achieve.
Brisket may be what Brothers is best known for. “It’s hard to do, and it’s hard to do well,” Meagan explains. The meat isn’t sliced until just before it’s served, which ensures it arrives at your table juicy and tender; diners also have the option of enjoying their brisket chopped for sandwiches or inside one of the delicious tacos. It’s served alongside Brothers’ ranch-style, zesty pinto beans and kicked-up slaw — cold, refreshing, and crunchy with a bit of spice.
Looking for a bite of everything at once? Look no further than Brothers’ incredible pulled pork mac bowl. A bowl full of mac and cheese is topped with spicy pulled pork, a drizzle of sauce, and crunchy corn chips. It’s creamy, spicy, sweet, meaty, crunchy … utter decadence.
5) Butcher’s Kitchen Char-B-Que
Ed Ferencik Sr. and his son, Ed Jr., opened this casual eatery in South Reno in early 2015. Ed Sr.’s career in butchering and meat preparation dates all the way back to when he was 14 years old, growing up in upstate New York, learning from his father about slaughtering, butchering, sausage making, and smoking meats. Meanwhile, Ed Jr. is a formally trained culinary professional and sommelier.
Their combined knowledge about meat and its preparation means that the meat is selected, butchered, and smoked all in house.
“I don’t rely on purveyors … I fabricate everything here. I don’t have to go and pay six bucks a pound for sausage from some local guy because I’m making it here,” Ed Sr. says, explaining that this not only allows him to use every bit of the meat purchased, but it also allows him to pass savings along to the customer.
He describes their barbecue as mostly Memphis style, with its emphasis on apple cider vinegar, though they also incorporate other Southern elements, including an Alabama white barbecue sauce, made with mayonnaise, vinegar, and pepper and not typically found in the West.
Rib tips, which are trimmed from the spareribs and usually quite tender, are a specialty here, and the quality of the meat is excellent.
The sausage also is a deliciously distinctive offering. On the night I visited, I inhaled “the cheesy,” a smoked German jagdwurst, or hunting sausage, made with ground pork and chunks of pork belly, infused with dripping melted cheese.
There are a million things to order here, including thick burgers made with house-ground beef, a tender Santa Maria tri-tip, and chili filled with thick chunks of brisket and pork belly. I regretfully had to step away with my full belly, vowing to try more next time.
6) Pete’s Meat BBQ
Pete Johnson was an avid barbecue fan, having grown up watching his father devote hours to grilling and smoking meats. He loved it so much, in fact, that he convinced his wife, Debi, to let him purchase a large offset smoker and begin entering barbecue competitions through the Kansas City Barbeque Society.
“It would cost me $1,000 just to leave my driveway and come home with bragging rights and a little trophy, maybe a little check to help cover the cost of meat,” he recalls.
But Covid dampened his aspirations to step up his competitive game, and he realized it made more sense to sell his creations, so, with Debi’s support, he purchased a food truck and began selling barbecue at church picnics and other small gatherings under the name Pete’s Meat BBQ. These days, he can be found around the area at food truck events, Andelin Farm in Sparks, and other local happenings.
He proudly serves Texas-style barbecue “because it’s the best,” he says. “It’s life-changing.”
Though Pete’s offerings are all special, including thick, meaty spareribs and a big, house-ground burger, the food truck stands out in my mind for three delicious reasons: burnt ends, pulled chicken, and a mustard barbecue sauce so good, you could almost drink it.
Burnt ends often are associated with Kansas City-style ’cue; they’re the cubed brisket ends where the heat, smoke, fat, and seasonings collect, forming a crunchy, savory, tender delight packed with flavor. It’s all the best parts of the meat — crusty, spicy, and fork tender — that Debi calls “meat candy.”
Chicken isn’t often a standout barbecue offering, mostly because it dries out quickly. But Pete’s smoked, pulled chicken is moist, tender, and smooth. Then what knocks it out of the park is that mustard sauce, a tangy, cool, creamy concoction reminiscent of Carolina barbecue and made with a mustard/oil base that makes your taste buds stand at attention.
7) Big Blue Q of Tahoe
Speaking of great barbecue food trucks, meet Shane Mathias, owner of Big Blue Q for the last 11 years and the soon-to-open brick-and-mortar Reno Bar & Grill off Morrill Avenue in East Reno. Mathias started his culinary career as a partner in a company doing backstage catering for entertainers such as Eagles and The Rolling Stones. After leaving to spend 24 years as a police officer in California, he decided to get back to his culinary roots and started Big Blue Q out of a food truck.
These days, private events keep the truck mostly booked, though you can occasionally find it serving the public. But Mathias has his eyes on Reno Bar & Grill, which he hopes to open in September and which will carry many of the barbecue menu items his longtime followers love.
And his barbecue, which he calls “Sierra style,” is quite special. Though he does sell a delicious traditional St. Louis-style rack of ribs, other items are quite unconventional.
“I feel like barbecue, historically, is often overseasoned and oversmoked. That can kind of turn some people off,” he explains. “I just wanted to start with a fresher approach to barbecue. Like, we do salmon and other items that aren’t historically what we think of as ‘barbecue.’ Just keeping it simple, letting the meat shine through.”
A perfect example of this is the pork belly BLT, one of his customers’ favorite offerings. It features a barbecued pork belly seared to a crisp on a flat-top grill, making it like a thick, chewy piece of bacon. It’s served on a French roll, topped with thick slices of heirloom tomato, fresh lettuce, and aioli. It has the salty smokiness of barbecued meat with the fresh, cool veggies that perfectly balance it.
The brisket sandwich also is like no other brisket I’ve tried — pulled and piled high on a bun, topped with a generous drizzle of barbecue sauce and a big handful of sliced onion, giving it a bit of heat and crunch.
Mathias’ sides are noteworthy: They include a bowl of fresh Mexican street corn topped with cilantro, onions, and a vinaigrette; and pavé potato tots, comprised of razor-thin layers of potato compressed in geometric blocks, deep fried, and seasoned, making for a compulsively addictive and unique treat.
8) Sonney’s BBQ Shack Bar & Grill
Sonney Bruning started this South Lake Tahoe barbecue institution a little more than 10 years ago, and in that time it has, rightfully, earned the title of Best BBQ in Tahoe from 2015 through 2022 from the Lake Tahoe Tribune. Kyle McQueen, its general manager, has been with the restaurant since day one and says that fans’ loyalty is likely due to the handmade quality of every dish.
“I don’t have a single freezer or microwave here,” McQueen says. “The only things we don’t make in house are the ketchup, salt, pepper, and whipped cream. We make the honey butters, all of our sauces, our dressings, our rubs … It makes a difference.”
In fact, Sonney’s is so beloved that Bruning opened a second location in Gardnerville, featuring the exact same menu. These days, McQueen is in the process of purchasing the Tahoe location so Bruning, now in his 60s, can finally start slowing down, because the restaurants are just as popular as ever.
The barbecue offered here is what McQueen describes as a combination of Texas smoking style with flavors hailing from the Carolina style, with its vinegar-based sauces, collard greens, and other Southern accompaniments.
Sonney’s is extraordinary in that it offers three styles of ribs on its regular menu: baby back and St. Louis pork ribs as well as beef ribs. The ribs are dry rubbed, not heavily sauced, so the seasoned crust shines through. And the brisket? Rather than sliced, it’s served in appealingly fork-tender, lightly seasoned chunks that are enormously flavorful, juicy, and satisfying.
But for me, the star on the menu — and what McQueen says is the restaurant’s most popular item — is the pig wings. This appetizer features two pork shanks (from the elbow to the wrist), braised in root beer with carrots, onions, and spices, then flash-fried and dipped in an Asian-style barbecue sauce, served on a bed of coleslaw and sprinkled with sliced green onions. Oh. My. Goodness. The vanilla in the root beer infuses sweetness into the meat while the braising liquid breaks it down to an unbelievable level of tenderness. An accidental bump of the fork is enough to knock all the scrumptious meat off the bone. I was sad when it was gone.
Here in the Reno-Tahoe area, we’re fortunate to be surrounded by many outstanding, even award-winning barbecue purveyors, from longtime restaurants to fledgling eateries and food trucks, serving an array of barbecue styles. Be sure to check them out! And this is just a sampling — be sure to share with us what your favorite barbecue joints are. I’ll bring my bib and meat you there!
RESOURCES
Big Blue Q of Tahoe Bbqtahoe.com
BJ’s Nevada Barbecue Co. Bjsbbq.com
Bone Appetit Bar-B-Que Grill Boneappetitcatering.com
Brothers Barbecue Bbqreno.com
Butcher’s Kitchen Char-B-Que Bkcharbque.com
Pete’s Meat BBQ Petesmeatbbq.com
Sonney’s BBQ Shack Bar & Grill Sonneysbbqshack.com
The Phoenix Phoenixatlegends.com
