ALL IN THE FAMILY

Reno-Tahoe residents share their holiday food traditions.

Written by Heidi Bethel
Photos by Shaun Hunter and Lou Manna

When members of the Ferrera family get together to cook, they go big: stuffing miles of Italian sausage, piling raviolis in mounds, and simmering great vats of red sauce. This Italian brood has come together in the kitchen for generations, and days spent preparing their beloved staples mean food for all — including the lucky friends and acquaintances who frequently join in on the action. 

In this issue of edible Reno-Tahoe, we meet the Ferreras and other area families who are busy this time of year preparing desserts and delicacies passed down by their ancestors, which wind up on their tables each year. 

Founded in fond memories

Georgette Ferrera was born to a Southern Italian mother who learned to cook from her sister and who in turn, imparted those skills and knowledge to young Georgette. Growing up in a family of vegetable farmers who settled in Colorado, Georgette’s memories include working tirelessly in the kitchen. 

Shondel Seth works the sausage through the grinder. Photo by Shaun Hunter

“I remember spending hours together and everyone pitching in to prepare food for the winter,” she recalls. “There was nothing quite like the smell and energy when it came time to cook.”

The same goes for Allen Ferrera. His grandparents migrated from Italy to the United States in the late 1800s, also settling in Colorado. He recalls hearing stories about what little food was available — unless prepared by the hands of fellow family members following secret recipes passed down through the generations verbally and rarely in writing. 

Fast forward to today, when Georgette and Allen work alongside their daughters, Laura Ferrera and Shondel Seth, to recreate the family delicacies cherished by all. (Laura, Georgette, and Shondel Seth all live in Reno. Allen lives in Las Cruces, N.M., and visits each year for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Some holidays, the family meets in Las Cruces or in Colorado where other family members live.) Most of the time they, too, cook from memory and adjust according to the “just-the-right-taste factor,” but they also can refer to a cherished family recipe book that was put together for a reunion two decades ago. 

Georgette cuts pasta dough. Photo by Shaun Hunter

Laura remembers taking the food and bonding experiences in the kitchen for granted when she was a child. 

“In my adult years, I found myself wanting to learn more and more,” Laura says. “I craved the Italian food and sauces from when I was a kid. My dad was away, and I told him next time he came to visit I wanted to learn.

“It was great to cook alongside my parents again,” she says.

Rekindling old traditions

As the cooler months begin to sweep through the Sierra, many families will spend time in the kitchen preparing old recipes that honor their ancestors. About seven years ago, Stacee Soter, operating partner of Reno’s P.F. Chang’s, began recreating the intricately decorated cookies her grandmother made from scratch and used to adorn the tree. 

Soter pipes icing onto a Santa cookie. Photo by Lou Manna

“They didn’t have any money, and this is how my dad remembers celebrating the holidays,” Soter says. “I wanted to bring in one of his traditions. I got the original cookie recipe from him and had to make a few tweaks, but we make them together every year. While it takes some time, about two full days, I’m so happy that I started doing this.” 

Stacee Soter, operating partner at P.F. Chang’s restaurant in Reno, adds the final touches to the intricately decorated cookies that are her grandmother’s recipe. Photo by Lou Manna

New institutions

As a child, John Zamora remembers enjoying jamón, a cured ham from Spain and Portugal, but he could never quite find the right substitute in the U.S. 

Zamora, an Idaho transportation director who spends considerable time in Reno with his fiancée, Pam, decided to take matters into his own hands. He spoke with a few people he knew from the old country to learn how to make the traditional version. 

“It wasn’t that great the first couple of seasons,” he says, adding that Pam, a foodie herself, helps with the jamón. “It was either too salty or dry. I knew it was going to have to be better, something special, to truly enjoy it. I did more research, and after three years of applying different techniques, I perfected my jamón.”

The secret? Berkshire hogs from Girlfarm in Reno. 

“The way they’re cared for and fed makes a world of difference if you’re trying to make an impact,” Zamora says. “If you’re going for tradition, make sure it counts in every way possible.”

Thinking about your own family’s food traditions? Don’t wait to get started. Georgette Ferrera urges folks to take advantage of the time with their families’ elders and the lessons they can learn. 

“People need to be aware that their parents aren’t going to be here forever,” she says. “They should just start the process and take on that responsibility, keeping it in the family. I promise it’ll be worth it.”

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Heidi Bethel shares many holiday traditions with her relatives, including special dishes passed on to her from her grandmothers. She looks forward to creating memories in the kitchen with her two young sons as they continue to grow. 

Ferrera Family Red Sauce
(courtesy of Georgette Ferrera. Serves 6) 

⅓ cup olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
½ cup dried basil
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon fresh or dried parsley
2, 6-ounce cans tomato paste
1, 11-ounce can tomato sauce
Sugar, to taste
Salt, to taste

In a large pot, heat olive oil on medium. Add garlic and onion; brown slightly. Add basil, black pepper, and parsley, then stir. Mix in tomato paste and 1½ cups water. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add tomato sauce and another 1½ cups of water. Stir sauce and bring to a simmer. Add sugar and salt, to taste. Simmer for 4 hours. Serve over homemade pasta or cool and freeze for later.