Discover the home of Shrimp Fridays at this colorful bar.
The name deceived me. I figured a place called Copenhagen Bar must be Scandinavian-themed. It never occurred to me that the red, green, and white color scheme on the building was Italian, like that nation’s flag. But when friends enticed me to visit this longstanding neighborhood bar, I discovered its rich history, which was tightly tied to the Quilici family.
Shrimp Day
The real enticement to drop in is on Friday, the only day that the Copenhagen serves food. Friday is Shrimp Day. Owner Doug Quilici is fully visible behind the bar, cooking shrimp scampi to order. He’s a wizard, standing at electric stovetops, turning out plates potent with garlic. The aroma arrives before you even are served. You can order the scampi two ways, but either way, the dozen or so large shrimp are surrounded by wonderful juices, begging to be sopped up with the accompanying mountain of buttery, herbed, and toasted sourdough. If you really are hungry, or you want to share with a friend, you can order the scampi served over capellini ($15). Less hungry? Have the shrimp in a bowl without the pasta ($12). In a calorie-counting mood? Then select the shrimp cocktail ($7.50), served with sauce enlivened with horseradish and presented in a classic schooner glass. Plus, you’ll still get the delectable garlic bread.
Changing Times, Changing Location
Copenhagen Bar can trace its origin to 1949, when Gino “Bear” Quilici and Hugo Ceccarelli acquired the bar, along with the name. The bar previously was located several blocks to the west, by Coney Island Bar, but that location was demolished in 1966 to make way for Interstate 80. As noted in the Nevada State Journal on Sept. 4, 1966, “A bar that has become almost a landmark in Sparks became the victim of progress last week, but its owner says the atmosphere has been transferred to a new location.”
The bar was able to attract many of the old customers to the Prater Way location in Sparks, and there still is a strong loyalty in the clientele. And where else could you also get your hair cut? The barber shop still is open at the corner of the building, just where Gil Lepp first opened it in 1966. For a more comprehensive history of this colorful place, see Doug Quilici’s oral history at the 4th Street/Prater Way Corridor History Project website (4thprater.onlinenevada.org/content/oral-histories).
And did I mention that the drinks here are cheap, with classics such as the Picon punch, old fashioned, and Manhattan going for $5 with well liquor and $6 with call liquor? It’s been said that it’s always happy hour at “the Cope.” It would be easy to call the Copenhagen a dive bar, but calling it a neighborhood bar is closer to its history. Prater Way once was a busy Sparks thoroughfare, surrounded by a neighborhood, and many tradesmen who lived in the area stopped by after work. Even now, many of the colorful and eclectic customers have been regulars for years. Two details worth noting: The bar allows smoking and only accepts cash.
It’s hard to imagine being bored at the Copenhagen. You can always walk around, drink in hand, and take in its hodgepodge of Western memorabilia. The sign outside still reads “Gino Bear Quilici’s Copenhagen Bar,” with red, white, and green wine bottles. A slouching cowboy cutout greets you as you enter. There’s a Virginia City vibe to the interior — a collector’s paradise, with hanging bicycles, old signs, saddles, and other dusty flourishes.
I’m always moved by the painting of “Bear” peering down over the cash register. The pool table awaits, and the regulars are great for a chat. And if all else fails, you can attempt to count the raffia-wrapped Chianti bottles hanging everywhere throughout the dimly lit space. Your glass probably will need a refill before you’re finished.
Copenhagen Bar
2140 Prater Way, Sparks
775-358-5672
Open 8:30 a.m. – 11 p.m. Tues. – Sat., 10 a.m. – 9 p.m. Sun.
