edible notables
LIQUID GOLD
Couple peddles olive oil for tasting and wellness.
WRITTEN BY JENNY LUNA
PHOTOS BY ASA GILMORE
“Honey, life isn’t a dress rehearsal,” John Burkavage told his wife, Mercedes, as they sipped a glass of wine at Whispering Vine Wine Co. in west Reno and stared at the empty storefront next door. “You want to do it? Let’s do it.”
The Burkavages describe what happened next as a “full-steam-ahead” opening of Big Horn Olive Oil at Mayberry Landing in late September of 2012, followed by the debut of a second location in south Reno in October 2013.
Quick Beginnings
“The big surprise was how passionate people got and how excited and accepting they were,” John says of Big Horn’s successful first year. “Once people get hooked on the product, there’s no going back.”
On a typical day at Big Horn, customers come in and are greeted by name. They relay their latest recipes to Mercedes, or ask for a recommendation for a new infused olive oil. Tastings of Big Horn’s latest arrivals and unique pairings of infused balsamic vinegars and olive oils constantly are being poured.
“A lot of customers have become friends,” Mercedes says. “All of us here are concerned about health and good food. It’s a growing family.”
Better Health
Since Big Horn opened one year ago, many customers have watched John’s health transform. The diabetic has lost 30 pounds since adopting a more Mediterranean-style diet of leafy vegetables, lean proteins, and, of course, olive oil.
“I’m a believer in it because the results are there for me,” John says.
Every day, John takes a shot of the Coratina olive oil from Peru, which contains one of the highest levels of polyphenol antioxidants.
“I’m surprised he doesn’t shower in it!” Mercedes says with a laugh.
The Burkavages are certified olive oil tasters, and their product earns the Ultra Premium Certification, the industry’s highest standard. Mercedes wants people to know that crush date, not origin, is the most important factor in choosing an olive oil.
“It’s [about being] fresh, like apple juice,” Mercedes says.
Big Horn staff members are educators more than salespeople — they say the golden elixir sells itself.
“For cooks or non-cooks, you can be your own chemist,” Mercedes says.
Home Means Nevada
The Burkavages have lived all over the country, through cold winters in Philadelphia and muggy summers in Florida, but they say they have found their home in Reno. The arid climate and dry winds remind Mercedes of the island where she grew up. Her family owned the only furniture store on Aruba.
“I always wanted my own store,” she says.
So when her husband told her to “not put off until tomorrow what you can do today,” she decided to open Big Horn.
“It’s my own little island,” she says. “I love the community and they seem to love me … or is it the oil?”
Jenny Luna is a Reno-born freelancer who spent two years living on olive orchards in Southern Spain and wishes to recreate that sublime farm-to-plate experience at home in Truckee.
Big Horn Olive Oil Co.
3888 Mayberry Drive, Ste. A, Reno
775-870-1500
75 Foothill Road, Ste. 3, Reno
775-800-1342
http://www.Bighornoliveoil.com
Find Mercedes’ recipes on Big Horn’s blog at http://www.Bhooc.tumblr.com.
Daily dose
In the evenings, John pours a little honey-ginger balsamic vinegar into a glass of Pellegrino. The homemade soda contains less than 3 grams of sugar.
Recommended Reads
Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil by Tom Mueller
Mueller exposes the fraudulent industry of olive oil (“virgin,” “pure,” “cold pressed”) and advocates for consumers to demand regulations and higher standards on oil.
