edible politics
RULES OF THE ROAD
Getting local chicken on the menu is complicated.
Local farmers must navigate tricky poultry processing regulations.
WRITTEN BY ANN LINDEMANN
PAINTING BY KELLY PEYTON
Interest in local food is higher than ever before and small-scale poultry operations are flocking to meet the demand. However, with complex federal, state, county, and even city oversight, the farm-to-market route is circuitous at best for local producers who want to sell their meat at farmers’ markets or to restaurants and grocery stores.
“Sometimes it seems like small farmers have all the odds against them,” says Polly Triplat, director of Slow Food Lake Tahoe, a group that promotes and advocates wholesome, clean, and local food. Triplat, after research and discussion with key officials, believes that regulatory agencies may be slowly but surely reevaluating existing laws.
Still, many small farmers — especially those in Nevada — are confounded by the regulations, which they say are inordinately strict and inflexible.
The United States Department of Agriculture has primary oversight for meat processing in general, but allows an exemption from federal inspection regulations for small poultry processors and for farmers processing their own poultry on the farm. In California, the California Department of Food and Agriculture licenses these federally exempt facilities.
“This approach allows government to satisfy its overall mandate to maintain food safety without posing an insurmountable regulatory hurdle on smaller operators,” says Jay Van Rein, of the CDFA Office of Public Affairs.
Navigating the Maze
Nevada small farmers face their own complicated labyrinth of regulations.
Dr. David Thain, state extension veterinarian in the Department of Agriculture, Nutrition and Veterinary Sciences at the University of Nevada, Reno, says there is specific language in the existing law to allow an owner-operator of a slaughter establishment to be approved for self-inspection (for intrastate sales) through the Nevada State Health Division or District Health Department, depending on county of residence. Residents of Washoe, Clark, or Carson City counties should contact the local health district office for assistance. In all likelihood, officials in Washoe, Clark, and Carson City counties will refer the producer to the State Division of Health. But the producer should contact the local health district first.
Confused by the last paragraph? You are not alone. For some time now, Mike Marsh of Rise and Shine Farms (see related story in Meet the Farmer column) has been seeking the legal avenue to sell his chickens to customers, retail outlets, and restaurants.
“For two years we have been working to get information on how to obtain a permit to process poultry, which is required by the state,” the Fallon farmer explains. “We were sent from one state or federal agency to the next and were not getting answers. It was a frustrating experience. We even had an attorney look into it and they couldn’t get the right answers.”
New Realm
Niche poultry producers such as Marsh represent a new trend in Nevada agriculture. Therefore, different state and county agencies may not have a definitive guide to offer … yet. Joe Pollack, public health engineer for the Nevada State Health Division, says the agency has not received any requests to permit or exempt a poultry processor.
“To my knowledge, the NSHD does not have any permitted food establishments processing poultry for sale to the public,” Pollack says. “The permitting process is simple and starts with filling out an application. With any food-related business, dealing with the regulatory side can seem daunting, especially when dealing with multiple jurisdictions. The easiest way to work through the requirements is to contact the agencies involved.”
According to Staci Emm, of the University of Nevada Cooperative Extension, not all health departments are the same and can vary by county. On top of that, the state also has several divisions.
“This is exciting new territory, the processing of poultry … when I, myself, read the USDA regulation, it is confusing,” Emm says. “I can see where it can be extremely frustrating for the producer. I also have seen the NRS regulations, which I don’t feel tell me much more. I hope that in 2012 we can find some answers and possibly provide a road map for local producers and for all of us.”
Farmer Mike Marsh didn’t intend to be the champion of small Nevada poultry processors, but it’s an issue he and his wife, Terri, are passionate about. At press time, the couple, who was “just ready to give up,” finally made a contact at the state health department. They are excited to be taking the first real steps necessary for the permitting process and eventually taking their chickens to market.
“We know there is a need to clarify USDA inspection criteria,” Emm says. “We also have to look at Nevada laws and the requirements of county health departments. We’re trying to sort it out so we can help those producers succeed in their efforts to provide Nevadans with locally raised meat, including poultry.”
Both states have regulations that were initially instituted for food safety, but challenge some small farmers who are striving to make their operations financially viable. Cooperative extensions that support the interests of small farmers are taking heed and working to solve the dilemma (see related story in Edible Notables section).
Ann Lindemann is a freelance writer based on the west shore of Lake Tahoe. A frequent edible contributor, Lindemann’s work is also featured in a variety of regional and national publications.
Resources
Calling all Local Meat Processors!
Cooperative Extension offers new class.
Aug. 16 – 17, 2012
Processing & Selling Locally Grown Meat Products
Beginning Farmers & Ranchers Program
University of Nevada Cooperative Extension
Gardnerville, Nev., 775-945-3444, Www.unce.unr.edu
California Meat Processors Contact
University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources
Chicken Painting by Kelly Peyton. Peyton is a Reno native and recent graduate from the University of Nevada, Reno’s bachelor of fine arts program. She is fascinated with Nevada’s culture and landscape and spends much of her time exploring its depths. Between explorations of Nevada’s desolate wilderness and the exotic chaos of urban cities, Peyton finds most of her inspiration within her immediate environment. Her recent work includes the 2011 Artown poster, a commissioned mural outside the new Great Basin Community Food Co-op, and a commission for the 2012 Tour de Nez poster. For details, email her at Kelly@720tahoestreet.com.
