BEYOND CALIFORNIA
Explore wines from regions outside the norm
and be rewarded with delicious, natural vintages.
WRITTEN BY DEVLON MOORE, PHOTO BY CAROLE TOPALIAN
Given our proximity to California’s wine-growing regions, it’s understandable that our market is flooded with wines from areas such as Napa and Sonoma.
While I adore some California wines, my biggest complaint with many of them is their lack of delicacy. By delicacy, I mean wines that are lower in three categories: alcohol, extract, and fruit.
Arguably, the country with the most delicate wines is France. And the best way to explore French wines is to buy according to the back label.When it comes to imported wine, the back label holds the most valuable information, including the name of the company importing the wine. There are a handful of importers that work with the best growers in France. Most of these growers are families with generations of experience who work sustainably or organically in their vineyards, ferment with ambient yeast, and use little or no additives in the cellar.
A few of these importers’ wares are readily available in the Reno-Tahoe area, such as Kermit Lynch and Louis/Dressner. Names that are slightly harder to find but no less worthy are Neal Rosenthal, Robert Chadderdon, andWeygandt-Metzler.When you buy a bottle of wine from these importers you can be confident that you are getting an authentic French wine, and there is no better way to form an opinion on a country’s wine than to drink a bottle from the best and most respected growers.
This doesn’t mean that you have to spend a lot of money. A large chunk of these importers’ wines are under $25. And you can even find some great ones in the $15 range.
Wander into your local store or restaurant and ask, “What wines do you have from Kermit Lynch or Neal Rosenthal?” You will not be disappointed.
Reno resident Devlon Moore owns Cepage Wines, which is dedicated to distributing wines from family-owned estates. He works with farmers from all over the world who are conscious of their craft and land and make wines that are handcrafted and grown sustainably, organically, and biodynamically.
CHOICE WINES
Chateau Ducasse This white Bordeaux imported by Kermit Lynch from a small estate run by Herve Dubourdieu is a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle. Find it at Whispering Vine, 3886 Mayberry Drive, Suite D, Reno, 775-787-9672 and Whole Foods Market, 6139 S. Virginia St., Reno, 775-852-8023.
Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges This 100 percent Cabernet Franc imported by Louis Dressner from the Loire Valley in France is light and fresh with aromas of tobacco and dark fruits. Find it at Ben’s Fine Wine and Spirits in Reno (at 901 Fourth St., 775-323-6277; 3480 Lakeside Drive, 775-829-2367; or 4794 N. Virginia St., 775-322-0588); also Beaujolais Bistro, 130 West St., Reno, 775-323-2227; and Sezmu, 670 Mount Rose St., Reno, 775-327-4448.
