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IN PURSUIT OF MONSTER FISH
Zeb Hogan’s stories are no exaggeration.
WRITTEN BY SUE EDMONDSON
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ZEB HOGAN
The next time writers at Marvel need inspiration for a superhero, they should meet Zeb Hogan. Like the fictional characters, he has a casual, youthful (despite his 40 years), unassuming persona, and the requisite important-yet-inconspicuous job — he’s a University of Nevada, Reno college of science research biologist.
This is why you’d never suspect he’d jump into the middle of the Mekong River to wrestle, barehanded, a 600-pound, 9-foot-long Mekong giant catfish, whose fins are lined with treacherous 12-inch spines. Although he’s taking the catfish into custody (for a brief time), it’s only part of his effort to protect it. The fish is one of the many species of endangered freshwater mega-fish that Hogan travels around the world, and into the water, to study and preserve.
Diving in
Giant freshwater fish have intrigued Hogan since he first studied them in the Mekong River in Thailand, courtesy of a Fulbright Scholarship.
“As an undergrad, I’d surveyed migratory fish in the Grand Canyon, and they weren’t doing well because of all the dams. Migratory fish need to migrate! They were planning dams in the Mekong and I was concerned — it has more species of giant fish than any other river in the world,” he says.
But it wasn’t until his first encounter with a giant catfish that he was hooked. “I was astounded,” he says. He left Thailand determined to help them survive.
His unusual methods intrigued the National Geographic Society back in 2002, when he applied for and received the first of three research grants from the organization. By 2007 he was starring in his own National Geographic show, Monster Fish. He’s never looked back.
“Doing the show makes me happy for two reasons,” he says. “My adventures might inspire a broader audience to care about wild places, and people are learning about these incredible fish.”
Preservation isn’t a simple matter; culture and economics play a role in every project. Mekong River fishing provides more than 2 million tons of food per year. Endangered giants, such as slow-growing sturgeon found in the Northern Hemisphere and the South American dinosaur-like arapaima (or paiche), are prized fare. By developing relationships with fishermen and communities around the world, he’s earned their support for his work.
Net success
Restrictions are popping up worldwide to prevent overfishing. Sustainably farm-raised “monster fish” are replacing their wild counterparts in stores and restaurants.
“The catfish you’re buying at Trader Joe’s or Walmart likely is farmed Mekong catfish,” he says.
Whole Foods Market will order paiche by the pound. Reno’s 4th St. Bistro features Sacramento Delta-raised sturgeon during fall and winter.
Hogan plans to continue his studies, education, and outreach. And no, he’s not concerned about the danger.
“I’ve only been hurt once, and that was in a car accident,” he says with a laugh.
Freelance writer Sue Edmondson writes for publications in Northern Nevada and California. She’s in awe of those who risk life and limb in pursuit of their passions.
Extras
Fish Exhibit
Zeb Hogan hopes to bring the National Geographic exhibit, Monsterfish: In Search of the Last River Giants, to the Nevada Discovery Museum in Reno next year. To help sponsor the exhibit, email Cblair@nvdm.org.
Recipe
Pan-roasted Sturgeon, Black Beluga Lentils, Dungeness Crab, Wilted Spinach, and Aioli
(courtesy of Natalie Sellers, chef and co-owner of 4th St. Bistro, Reno)
1 6-ounce portion sturgeon per person
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Season both sides of sturgeon with salt and pepper. Heat sauté pan over high heat. Add olive oil to hot pan, and when oil begins to shimmer, gently place sturgeon in pan. Cook until bottom of fish is browned. Turn fish over and continue to cook on medium heat until flesh is firm and opaque (but not overdone!).
Black Beluga Lentils
(Serves 6 to 8)
2 cups black beluga lentils, or French lentils
1 carrot, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 sprig fresh thyme
Kosher salt, to taste
Olive oil
Heat olive oil in small stockpot and add carrot, celery, and onion. Sweat until soft but not colored. Sort and rinse lentils. Add to pot and stir until coated. Add enough water just to cover lentils. Stir in garlic, thyme, and salt. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook uncovered until done. Add more water if water level falls below top of lentils. Remove from heat, taste, and adjust seasonings as desired.
Sherry Shallot Vinaigrette
(Yields about 1⅓ cups)
1 small shallot, minced
¼ cup sherry vinegar
Splash red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 cup olive oil
Mince shallot and place in small nonreactive bowl with vinegars. Allow shallots to macerate for 10 to 15 minutes before adding remaining ingredients. This process reduces the shallots’ harsh flavor and results in a milder flavor. Add salt and mustard, and whisk until salt is dissolved. Slowly add oil, whisking until slightly emulsified.
Wilted Spinach
Baby spinach, washed and dried (about two handfuls per serving)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sherry shallot vinaigrette
Place spinach in large stainless-steel bowl and season with salt and pepper. Lightly dress spinach with vinaigrette and toss. Bring pot containing 2 inches of water to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and set bowl containing dressed spinach over pot. Toss spinach until barely wilted and warm.
Aioli
(Yields about 3 cups)
4 egg yolks
8 to 10 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups olive oil
Place eggs in food processor with garlic. Blend until foamy then add lemon juice and kosher salt. While machine is running, slowly add olive oil. If aioli is too thick, add a little cold water to thin. Taste and add more lemon or salt if needed.
To assemble final dish:
Black Beluga Lentils, or French lentils
Fresh Dungeness crab meat, picked (about 2 ounces per person)
Wilted Baby Spinach
Aioli
Gently heat cooked lentils with crab. Place wilted spinach on each plate. Spoon some lentils with crabmeat in center, place fish on top, and add dollop of aioli.
Paiche with Miso Butter and Fennel Radish Salad
(courtesy of Amy Sherman, recipe developer and writer at Cooking With Amy blog. Serves 4. Note: Paiche are the largest freshwater fish in South America and are among the largest freshwater fish in the world.)
4 6-ounce paiche filets (about ¾-inch thick)
2 teaspoons oil
Sauce
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons white miso
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 5 pieces
Salad
½ fennel bulb
5 radishes
½ lemon
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil (Olio Nuovo recommended)
¼ teaspoon sugar
20 mint leaves, thinly sliced
Using a mandolin or very sharp knife, thinly slice fennel, radishes, and half lemon, removing any seeds. Toss slices with olive oil, salt, and mint.
In small saucepan, combine lemon juice, miso, mustard, and sugar with whisk. Heat gently over low heat and whisk in butter, allowing it to melt and emulsify sauce.
Sear fish in hot nonstick pan coated with a little oil, and cook about 4 minutes on each side. Fish should be cooked through and white, not pink.
On each plate, place fish filet and top with tablespoon of sauce. Serve salad on side.
