edible notables
DELI LEGACY
Yosh’s keeps it in the family.
WRITTEN BY COLLEEN HAGEN
PHOTO BY CANDICE NYANDO
Tucked amid a fresh suburban shopping center in south Reno is the soul of one of the city’s oldest delicatessens. Though barely a year old, Yosh’s Unique Deli carries on a tradition of fine food and service that was established nearly 40 years ago. And they’re keeping it all in the family.
Owner Josh Codding, the “Yosh” in Yosh’s is reinvigorating the business that his grandfather, Joe Castillo, began in 1973 with Unique Delicatessen. Unique, arguably considered Reno’s first deli, was a city staple for 22 years, offering fine meats, cheeses, and fresh-baked bread to a loyal following.
Codding opened the doors to his own Yosh’s Unique Deli last April, with the help of his mother, Debbie Morgan. They’ve carried over many of the family’s recipes that made Unique Delicatessen such a success while adding fresh touches of their own, such as in-house dining and a full menu of salads, sandwiches, and soups.
The family strives to use local and regional products. From the locally grown basil (from Sterling Farms in Reno) and melon to the gaggle of tomatoes an eager neighbor dropped in with, much of Yosh’s menu has ties to the community.
“Reno has become more culinary conscious,” Codding says. “Locals want to eat local and fresh. Ready-made food is not for us.”
Stocks, dressings, and more are made in house, including breads baked by Morgan’s sister Jody Coli. The whole family has a personal interest in the excellence of what ends up on the table.
“Everything that goes out has three levels of quality control,” Codding says. “Me in the kitchen, my aunt in the window, and my mom on the floor. We’re all invested in making sure it’s perfect.”
The meticulousness has paid off for Codding and his family. Both dine-in and catering business are booming at Yosh’s. There’s even talk of opening new locations in the future — family only, of course.
“Maybe we’ll try to fam-chise,” Morgan says. “I have two daughters after all.”
Colleen Hagen is a local freelance journalist and chef at The Ritz Carlton, Lake Tahoe.
RESOURCES
Yosh’s Unique Deli
85 Foothill Drive, Suite 4, Reno
775-853-9674
http://www.yoshsdeli.com
