tips and tricks
SEASONING PRIMER
Six ways to spice up your next meal.
WRITTEN BY KAY FAHEY
PHOTOS BY JACI GOODMAN
Like beads and “bling” make fashion shine, spices add pop to dishes to make them special and memorable. And these days, even the most exotic spices are readily available in stores or online.
But right now, there’s a good chance you have some exotic spices in your kitchen that you have no idea how to use.
It’s easy to confuse spices and herbs. Herbs usually are the leaves of plants, whereas spices come from fruit, seed, or bark.
We’ve put together a list of spices people frequently wonder about, together with suggestions for how they can add some sparkle to your culinary creations.
Caraway
An Eastern European staple, caraway seed’s licorice-like, peppery aroma is familiar from rye breads. It’s traditionally added to aid digestion in heavy meat, potato, and cabbage dishes, and it provides the perfect accent to sharp cheeses. The British use caraway to add brightness to seedcake.
Coriander
The seed of the cilantro plant, coriander gives lemon and sage notes to foods from India and the Mediterranean. It combines well with ginger and is dynamite in sweet pastries. Add for a note of brightness as a rub for chicken and fish and in sausage.
Cumin
This seed of a parsley relative is popular the world over. Vital to curries and chili powder, its seed imparts a warm pungency that turns nutty when toasted. Use a pinch to add depth to guacamole and ground beef.
Curry
This powdered spice blend defines the cooking of India and is popular throughout Southeast Asia. There are myriad curries, which can contain dozens of spices, including cumin, coriander, turmeric, and chilies. It adds an explosion of flavor to everything from fruit to lamb. The most popular include yellow Madras style and Thai massaman. (See the recipe provided for my version of Grandmother Holleman’s Chicken Curry.)
Mustard
The seed of the mustard plant can be brown or yellow. Indian cooks fry whole brown seeds to impart nuttiness, while ground yellow mustard adds punch to dressings and barbecue sauces. It’s particularly good in creamy sauces such as aioli.
Saffron
The crimson stigma of the saffron crocus is renowned as the world’s most expensive spice, but a little goes a long way. It imparts a floral note and brilliant daffodil hue to risotto and paella. Northern Europeans use it to enhance sweet breads. Avoid powdered saffron; using the whole stigma packs a huge punch.
Foodie, former restaurateur, and freelance writer Kay Fahey loves exploring the world’s cultures and cuisines through spices. If she had to choose one favorite spice, it would be saffron. No, wait, her mother’s curry powder. Or maybe …
RECIPE AND TIP
Most spices keep best when whole. Store whole spices in the freezer in an airtight bag. Then grind only the amount you need in a coffee grinder reserved for spices.
Grandmother Holleman’s Chicken Curry (my version)
(Courtesy of Kay Fahey. Don’t be put off by the soup and mayo. This recipe was given to me years ago by a neighbor who lived most of her adult life in India. Be sure to use a good curry powder, such as Penzeys’ Maharaja version, as that’s where the flavor comes from. This recipe serves 4.)
2 packages frozen artichoke hearts
1 jar roasted red peppers, or 4 home-roasted red bell peppers, peeled and seeded
3 large, or 4 small, boneless, skinless chicken breasts
4 cans condensed Cream of Chicken soup
1½ cups mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons yellow curry powder (or more to taste)
½ cup grated sharp Cheddar
½ cup white breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon melted butter
Paprika or cayenne (or both)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Wash chicken and pat dry. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add enough olive oil or peanut oil to coat the bottom well. Wait a few moments for oil to get hot, then sear chicken until nicely browned on both sides, adding oil if needed to prevent sticking. Leave a little space between the breasts, working in two batches if needed. Remove onto plate.
Combine soup, mayonnaise, lemon juice, and curry powder and any juices from cooked chicken. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Roughly chop artichoke hearts, removing any tough leaves. Scatter over bottom of baking dish and cover with about 1/4 of sauce. Distribute peppers over artichokes and sauce. Cover with a little less than half of remaining sauce. Place chicken on top and cover with remaining sauce. Sprinkle with cheese. Toss breadcrumbs with butter and sprinkle over all. Bake for about 40 minutes, until bubbling vigorously.
Serve with Basmati rice.
