tips and tricks
THE SKINNY ON FATS
Demystifying cooking oils.
WRITTEN BY BARBARA TWITCHELL
PHOTOS BY JACI GOODMAN
F-a-t.
It’s the other F-word. When we hear it, most of us tend to cringe.
But the truth is that the quality, taste, and texture of our food would not be the same without it. Let’s face it — fat puts the sizzle in the skillet!
“Cooking fats are heat conductors,” says Lara Ritchie, culinary director of Nothing to It Culinary Center in Reno. “What they’re doing is transferring the heat from the cooking vessel to the food. You always have to look at what the conductivity of that fat is, and whether it can maintain that heat without breaking down.”
This is what’s called the smoke point, which is a fat’s maximum usable temperature. Each fat has one. And that factor is what determines the right fat for each cooking task.
As a general rule, oils tend to handle high heat better than solid fats. Also, the more refined the oil, the higher the smoke point.
Here’s the skinny on some of the most popular cooking oils:
Olive Oil
Believed to offer many health benefits, this is a versatile oil with a pleasing aroma and flavor. It can tolerate medium heat, so use it for light sautéing. Great for salads or for drizzling on prepared foods such as risotto, pasta, fish, or vegetables.
Canola Oil
A good, all-purpose cooking oil that can tolerate high heat, canola also is considered a healthy oil, being that it’s a good source of essential fatty acids. It’s virtually tasteless so it doesn’t influence the flavor of foods. It’s made from seeds of the rapeseed plant, some of which are genetically modified (GMO), others naturally hybridized. Concerned consumers can opt for non-GMO versions available at stores such as the Great Basin Community Food Co-op in Reno and Whole Foods Market in Reno.
Grapeseed Oil
This oil is similar to canola oil, but without the controversy. It can tolerate high heat, so it’s great for sautéing and frying. It’s essentially flavorless, and made as a byproduct of winemaking. Let’s all drink to that!
Peanut Oil
It tolerates high heat, which makes it a natural for stir-frying. Used primarily for Asian cooking, it has a distinctive aroma and flavor, and is great for salad dressings.
Toasted Sesame Oil
It has similar attributes to peanut oil.
Coconut Oil
Excellent for high-heat sautéing and frying, it has a nutty flavor with a hint of sweetness that works well with baked goods, pastries, and sautés. Virgin coconut oil virtually is scent free. It’s highest in saturated fats of any oil, but recent studies suggest it may actually raise good cholesterol and have other health benefits. Angel or devil? The jury is still out on this one.
Cooking Sprays
These are actually oil combined with lecithin and a propellant. They’re excellent to spray on bakeware to prevent sticking. Never use on non-stick pans, as it will ruin them. Not recommended for sautéing. Fat or calorie concerns? Consider putting cooking oil in an atomizer instead.
And one final word of caution: Heat and light degrade oils, so always store them in a cool, dark place.
Reno freelance writer Barbara Twitchell wants it known that her favorite use of oil was not included in this article. Massage, anyone?
SIDEBAR
Butter is the flavor king. No other fat is more pleasing to the palate. But how does it perform?
• Can be used for cooking but has a low smoke point and burns easily
• Good for baking; adds flavor and texture to baked goods
• Always use unsalted butter for cooking/baking; save salted butter for table use
So what about margarine?
• Can be used for cooking; has higher smoke point than butter but still less than oil
• Suitable for baking, opt for stick variety for best consistency
Low-fat or light spreads
• Unsuitable for cooking or baking due to low-fat and high-water content
Which to use is a matter of preference. Butter and margarine have about the same number of calories. Butter has saturated fat; margarines have trans fats — both maligned by health experts. So it probably comes down to taste. Most chefs prefer to go with butter.
Clarified Butter
Clarified butter has a higher heat tolerance and a different look, viscosity, and taste than the regular version. If your recipe calls for clarified butter, it’s as easy as 1-2-3.
Slowly melt butter over low heat.
Skim off the milk solids that foam to the top until only golden, translucent liquid remains.
Remove the pan from heat.
Voilà! You now have clarified butter.
