Cookie Craft
Meet locals mastering the art of the sugar cookie.
There’s something simply magical about sugar cookies, especially this time of year — whether you’re sitting at the counter rolling out the cooled, sweet dough, covering the shapes with iridescent sprinkles, or taking that first enticing bite. Area bakers agree that this rich, buttery treat is the perfect palette for innumerable flavors and colors, which is why sugar cookies are a nostalgic holiday favorite.
Meet the Makers
Kevin Futamachi, pastry chef and owner of Sweet Escapes Bakes in Reno, says baking always has been part of his identity.
“I used to watch cooking shows as a kid instead of the traditional Saturday morning cartoons,” he says. “My grandma and mom are very good cooks, and I was influenced by helping them in the kitchen. What really resonated with me was decorating. As I was growing up, I started getting more interested in cookbooks and the technical aspects.
“To be a pastry chef and cookie maker, you must have a lot of patience,” he adds. “I like very intricate things with a lot of detail, so when I’m working on a cookie specifically, I kind of zone out, and it’s relaxing. Whether it’s a cookie or a wedding cake, it’s relaxing. Having so much detail de-stresses me. It just so happens it’s sugar, so you get to eat it.”
At C’s Mad Batter Cakery in Sparks, owner Ciarra Melvin shares a fond sentiment for sugar cookies and appreciates the time and care it takes to make them.
“A lot of people don’t know that cookies take forever; they think they’re smaller and quicker, but that’s far from the truth,” Melvin explains.
Melvin’s passion for sugar cookies turned into a home business eight years ago. Her aunt, an avid cookie maker who lives in California, encouraged Melvin to become more connected to the craft.
“I took different cookie classes, and when Covid hit, I had something I could do from home,” she recalls. “Everything was individually packaged, and people were downsizing their traditional wedding cakes … It was a good time to grow my business.”
Melvin opened her store in the Sparks Galleria Shopping Center in May 2023, and she’s seen a significant influx of corporate and wholesale orders.
“I’ve had a lot of different requests come in, but some of my favorites are Lake Tahoe-shaped cookies, with beautiful artwork that’s printed on edible cookies,” she notes.
Kris Daters has been slinging sugary goodness at Mix Bakeshop in Old Southwest Reno since 2009.
“We initially started just selling cupcakes,” Daters says. “Cookies were added within the first year or two to expand the product line. It allowed us to do cookie-decorating classes, which are hugely popular.
“Sugar cookies are just so versatile because you can custom decorate them, and they work great for events and parties,” she adds. “You can convey your theme or have a favor that’s not necessarily a lasting memento, but you can take a picture and remember the special occasion.”
About the Dough
All three cookie makers believe working with cooled dough is the key to a great cookie. After making his dough, Futamachi lets it chill for at least an hour.
“When you’re trying to roll out soft dough, it’s a lot harder to work with,” he explains. “I chill [it], take it out, and knead it. It still has a little chill but is pliable enough to roll out.”
Daters rolls the dough between two pieces of plastic wrap, negating the need for flour or anything else that will change the consistency of the cookie. She also uses dough sticks, which are tools designed to help achieve uniform thickness.
When it’s time for the oven, Melvin ensures the dough is still cool before baking.
“We make all our dough from scratch and bake it when it is nice and cold to preserve the shape,” Melvin explains.
Futamachi bakes his cookies at 325 degrees F, and he underbakes them just slightly before cooling overnight.
“For me, at least, I don’t want a cookie that has a golden edge. I like cookies that are a little bit softer,” he says.
Frosting Finesse
For flawless cookie decoration, it’s crucial to let cookies chill before applying frosting. Skipping this step could lead to “butter bleed,” where the butter from the cookie seeps through the icing. Melvin recommends mixing royal icing with meringue to ensure a stiff, manageable texture.
“When you first whip up royal icing, it can be runny. The meringue helps stiffen it, so you get beautiful flowers or fine lines that don’t expand,” Melvin says.
When choosing frosting, Futamachi prefers American buttercream for sugar cookies that call for a sweeter flavor and rustic look. For intricate decorations, royal icing also is his go-to.
“For vibrant colors, gel coloring is superior to liquid food coloring because it’s more concentrated. I let it sit covered with a damp towel for about an hour to deepen the color,” he advises.
Many bakers find royal icing intimidating, but Daters insists it’s manageable.
“It’s a simple recipe that is easy to make and use. Don’t be intimidated — using a piping bag to decorate is far easier than spreading it with a knife,” she says.
Magical Touches
After the cookies are cooled and frosted, it’s time to let your creativity shine. Melvin uses regular frosting tips for high and tight flowers, piping out small dollops of icing to create sweet petals. She also is a big fan of crinkled parchment paper pressed into wet frosting and left to dry.
“You get a 3D texture going on with super minimal work,” she says.
Anything sparkly makes Futamachi happy.
“I use a lot of the sanding sugar that has a smaller grain to it because I find it has a lot more sparkle, and it sticks better to the cookie. It looks more like glitter,” he says. “I use a lot of luster dust and tend to stick with more gold and silver.”
Futamachi uses stencils to create repetitive decorations, such as logos.
“I create stencils because it’s much easier to swipe frosting over a cookie than trying to pipe it all. I use my Cricut machine to create stencils so customers can get exactly what they want. I also have an edible image printer. If somebody wants a very precise picture, that’s something I can produce.”
For a simple, more rustic approach, Daters sticks with buttercream adorned with sprinkles. Mix Bakeshop offers seasonal holiday cookie kits.
“It’s a great activity for getting into the Christmas spirit, and it makes a great little gift to drop off so the family can decorate it themselves,” she adds.
No matter the icing or décor, all three cookie makers encourage readers to take their time and be patient with the process.
“It’s the holidays, so it’s about spending time together and creating memories,” Futamachi says. “If you’re at home with the kids, you don’t want to focus so much on perfection, and you want to have fun in the process.”
As Melvin puts it, enjoy the moment and “always keep baking the world a better place.”
Ingredients
- 2 sticks unsalted butter softened
- ½ cup granulated sugar
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 2½ cups all-purpose flour
- ½ teaspoon salt
Instructions
- Cream butter and sugar together. Add egg yolks, 1 at a time, and mix thoroughly. Add vanilla extract. Add flour and salt slowly and mix until dough comes together. Finish kneading dough on a work surface until smooth. Wrap in cling film and chill for at least an hour.
- To shape and bake cookies: Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Pull dough from refrigerator and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes to soften a little. Dust work surface with flour and roll out dough to about ¼-inch thick. Cut desired shapes and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake cookies for about 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool before decorating.
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons meringue powder
- ⅔ cup water divided
- 4 cups powdered sugar
- 2 teaspoons glycerin
- 3 tablespoons corn syrup
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Instructions
- In a mixer bowl, combine meringue powder and ⅓ cup water. Mix for a few minutes. Add powdered sugar, glycerin, corn syrup, and vanilla, then mix. With mixer on, slowly add remaining ⅓ cup of water. If the icing is still too thick, add drops of water until it resembles the consistency of creamy peanut butter. Beat it for 5 to 7 minutes. Melvin puts a bead of water in the bottom of a Tupperware bowl before adding icing, covers bowl, and stores it for a few days on the counter.
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