Soul Food
Braised oxtail, shrimp and grits, and collard greens are just some of the Southern specialties offered at Papa What You Cooking
Papa What You Cooking features homey Southern dishes.
Tucked away in The Basement, the bottom half of Reno’s historic downtown post office building, a newer restaurant named Papa What You Cooking has quickly captured the hearts (and appetites) of locals since opening in August 2023. First-time restaurateur William Lyons has transformed this small space into a culinary destination known for its authentic Southern comfort food and warm, welcoming atmosphere.
Nostalgic Nosh
Growing up in the heart of the South, Lyons inherited his passion for cooking from his parents. His father, a pastor and barbecue expert, and his mother, a renowned baker, instilled in him an appreciation for flavorful Southern cuisine. Some of Lyons’ fondest memories revolve around the delicious food served at family gatherings after church services, where community and culinary traditions deliciously mixed.
After dedicating almost 30 years to law enforcement, Lyons retired, became a pastor, and began cooking for friends and neighbors. His homemade cakes and pies earned such praise that word-of-mouth recommendations soon had him selling desserts throughout the neighborhood. As demand grew, he often fielded requests for savory dishes and expanded into soul and Southern classics that reflected his Alabama roots.
“I cook food from my past that brings comfort and nostalgia,” Lyons says.
As testament to that, his menu features standards such as shrimp and grits, red beans and rice, and mac and cheese. There are other Southern specialties such as fried bologna sandwiches or roast beef po’ boys, dishes that connect diners to cherished memories. Lyons is known for his desserts, and there is no shortage of delightful options at his restaurant — from pecan pie and German chocolate cake to caramel cake by the slice.
What sets Papa What You Cooking apart is Lyons’ commitment to authenticity. Every dish is prepared with fresh ingredients, and there are no frozen products or fryers in sight. He proudly describes his offerings as “the healthier side of soul food,” pointing to specialties such as his slow-cooked oxtails, which began as a one-day-a-week offering and is now offered daily. Lyons notes that he serves more than 140 pounds of oxtails a week, and demand continues to grow.
Beyond the delicious menu, Lyons has created an atmosphere where everyone feels welcome.
“I want people to come to my restaurant and feel at home,” he says.
This philosophy resonates with patrons who return not only for the exceptional food, but also for the sense of belonging. The emotional connection customers form with Lyons’ cooking is remarkable.
“Sometimes customers cry when they eat my food because it reminds them of their mom’s cooking,” he says.
Such a profound response fuels his passion for pleasing people through food. For Lyons, Papa What You Cooking represents an expression of his roots, family, and a lifetime of memories sharing them with others. His journey from helping his mother bake sweet potato pie in Alabama to owning a restaurant in Reno demonstrates how passion, heritage, and community can create something truly special — a place where every bite offers a slice of nostalgia and a taste of home.
Papa What You Cooking
50 S. Virginia St., Reno
775-258-6862 · Papawhatyoucookingnv.com
Open 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Tues. – Sat.
More From This Issue
Wedding Guide
