Chef/co-owner Sergio Romero of La Condesa Eatery
Chef/co-owner Sergio Romero of La Condesa Eatery

Spring 2026 | Chef's Table

Man of La Condesa

Global fusion cuisine thatโ€™s a dream come true.

written by Barbara Twitchell
photos by Donna Victor

Don Quixote may have been delusional as he tilted at windmills in pursuit of his impossible dream. No such delusions plagued Sergio Romero as he waged his crusade to overcome the bane of a conventional, routine menu. And wow, has he ever succeeded.

As a chef for more than 40 years, Romero set out to master a wide variety of ethnic cuisines. But more than that, he continued to combine elements of diverse ingredients into ethnic-fusion dishes so scrumptious you may wonder why no one has thought to marry these particular flavors before.  

โ€œFormal training? I went to the school of hard work,โ€ Romero says with a big smile and a well-deserved air of pride. โ€œI learned the working way. And I loved reading books on all kinds of cuisines, trying different flavors and combinations.โ€

And he did just that, working as a chef and executive chef at some of Renoโ€™s best restaurants, all the while learning, experimenting, and perfecting his own unique collection of recipes.

In 2022, he had the opportunity, with co-owner Cesar Perez, to finally open his own restaurant โ€” La Condesa Eatery, tucked away at the roundabout on Wells Avenue in Midtown Reno. He filled the menu with his culinary vision of the perfect restaurant.

โ€œPeople donโ€™t have to decide which type of place they want to eat based on ethnic food preferences,โ€ Romero says. โ€œWe have a little of everything โ€” Mexican, Asian, Italian, Spanish, Korean, and more! So we can please everyone.โ€

People flocked to the innovative restaurant, and in 2023 and 2024, La Condesa was named one of Yelpโ€™s 100 Best Restaurants in the Nation.

Spanish octopus with tamarindo rush cocktail
Spanish octopus with tamarindo rush cocktail

The Mood and Menu
The three contiguous dining rooms at La Condesa emanate an air of casual, welcoming elegance. Featuring lofty ceilings and stunning modern artwork of three international artists, they provide the perfect backdrop for Romeroโ€™s unique, multiethnic menu. In warm weather, another popular option is to dine on the lovely, shaded patio, where live music is offered every Wednesday evening.

But the main attraction always is Romeroโ€™s distinctive menu โ€” the diversity, the flavor, the selective ingredients. Just about everything is fresh, whole, organic, and prepared in house. Even the seasonings are grated by hand each day.

Customer favorites include the mouthwatering Black Angus rib eye tacos, served on handmade, organic corn tortillas and topped with fresh guacamole and pico de gallo. Melt-in-your-mouth pork belly bao steam buns delightfully mix traditional Asian and Mexican flavors of hoisin, habanero sriracha, and hot mustard.

Black Angus rib eye tacos (left), a don't tell me what to do signature cocktail, and exotic mushrooms al pastor tacos (right)
Black Angus rib eye tacos (left), a don’t tell me what to do signature cocktail, and exotic mushrooms al pastor tacos (right)

Exotic mushroom al pastor tacos are a fabulous combination of lionโ€™s mane, oyster, and cremini mushrooms, sautรฉed with charred onions and caramelized pineapple that really make the flavors pop, creating a delectably spicy concoction served on an organic corn tortilla. How about yellowfin tuna ceviche? Itโ€™s a festival of colors and flavors, with its spicy Peruvian leche de tigre marinated tuna amid a myriad of fresh, crisp vegetables.

Yellowfin ahi ceviche
Yellowfin ahi ceviche

That only scratches the surface of the various cuisines available. Charcoal-grilled Spanish octopus, Thai chopped salad, carbonara pasta, mushroom-artichoke pizza โ€ฆ the list goes on. And letโ€™s not forget the bar with its expansive, creative cocktail menu.

The hardest part of dining here is deciding which of these many delicious options you want to try first. Blame Sergio Romero for that.

La Condesa Eatery
1642 S. Wells Ave., Reno
Lacondesaeatery.com

CAULIFLOWER CEVICHE
Photo by Donna Victor
This delightful dish consists of two main components: pickled cauliflower and fresh pico de gallo, each contributing unique flavors and textures. The pickling process infuses the cauliflower with a tangy, savory essence while the pico de gallo adds freshness and brightness. Enjoy this as a refreshing appetizer or a unique side dish.
Servings: 7 servings
Author: Sergio Romero, chef/owner of La Condesa Eatery in Reno

Ingredients

For pickled cauliflower

  • ยฝ large cauliflower
  • 4 ounces olive oil
  • 10 garlic cloves peeled
  • ยฝ medium white onion diced
  • 1 red bell pepper diced
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 3 sprigs of thyme
  • 3 cloves
  • ยฝ tablespoon oregano
  • ยฝ teaspoon whole black pepper
  • Salt to taste
  • 8 ounces white vinegar
  • 24 ounces water

For fresh pico de gallo

  • 3 heirloom tomatoes diced
  • 1 small red onion finely chopped
  • 2 serrano chiles finely chopped (adjust for spice preference)
  • Juice of 2 limes
  • ยฝ bunch cilantro chopped
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Avocado for garnish
  • Corn chips or tostadas for serving

Instructions

For pickled cauliflower

  • Remove leaves and stem from cauliflower, cut into bite-sized florets, and set aside. In large pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic cloves and sautรฉ until they turn golden and fragrant, about 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in onion and peppers, cooking for an additional 5 minutes until they soften and become aromatic. Add remaining spices, vinegar, and water, then bring to a boil. Add cauliflower florets to the boiling mixture. Cook for 1 minute, ensuring the cauliflower is tender but still crisp.
  • Remove from heat and allow to cool. Once cooled, pour mixture into a container and refrigerate for at least 24 hours to allow the flavors to meld.

For fresh pico de gallo

  • In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, onion, and chiles. Add lime juice and cilantro, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix well to combine all the flavors.

To assemble ceviche

  • After pickled cauliflower has cooled and marinated for at least 24 hours, drain the liquid and discard the spices and bay leaves. Mix the pickled cauliflower with the pico de gallo in a large bowl.
  • To serve, top with sliced avocado and present it alongside corn chips or tostadas for a delightful crunch.

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