New England-inspired seafood pop-up launches in Tahoe-Truckee.
As a fifth-generation Rhode Islander, Zack Duksta grew up watching his dad layer kelp, corn, potatoes, linguica, and clams in a large pot for family lobster boils; catching striped bass to cook back at the beach house; and learning how to shuck oysters at a young age.
“My dad taught me how to shuck oysters 15 years ago, and I think he let me get better than he was so he didn’t have to do it anymore,” Duksta says with a laugh. “Basically, everything that I’ve learned about New England seafood cuisine is due to my family.”
After moving to Truckee, Duksta found himself heading to the far northern coast of California to bring back bushels of oysters from Hog Island Oyster Co. or other farms to shuck for friends and family. Seeing the need for fresh, simply prepared seafood around Tahoe and Truckee, Duksta launched Shuck Truck Catering last year. Duksta hosts regular pop-ups at local breweries and private events around the region, serving up raw oysters, lobster rolls and sliders, shrimp, New England clam chowder, and more.
East Meets West
“I try to have at least one East Coast selection and one West Coast selection of oysters. So many people out here say they like kusshi or Kumamotos or Miyagi — all West Coast varieties — because odds are they have never actually even had an East Coast oyster,” Duksta explains.
Though qualities vary by species, West Coast oysters tend to have deeper cups, are a bit fleshier, and taste a little sweeter, Duksta notes. East Coast oysters usually are not as plump and have a brinier seawater flavor to them.
In addition to the incredible flavors, Duksta is drawn to farmed oysters for their sustainability. A single adult oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water a day, removing harmful nutrients, sediment, and other contaminants from the water.
Making a Splash
Shucked on the spot and kept on a bed of ice, Duksta’s oysters are served with a mignonette (minced shallots, cracked pepper, and vinegar) jazzed up with fresh tarragon and grapefruit. A homemade cocktail sauce features a secret family ingredient that you’re probably more accustomed to having in a tumbler. Occasionally, Duksta brings out the grill for barbecued oysters served with compound butter (think chipotle-bourbon-honey-Parmesan cheese). For private events, Duksta may even give the oysters the gourmet treatment with citrus-saffron foam or wasabi foam with tobiko.
Shuck Truck Catering often posts up at breweries around the lake, and Duksta says his selection of oysters pairs well with Truckee Brewing Co.’s Red Ale and Brut IPA as well as Kings Beach-based Bear Belly Brewing’s Coya the Destroya Ale. Every week, on his Instagram account, he shares his upcoming locations.
Beyond his raw bar, Duksta is well-known for his lobster rolls and sliders, made with fresh lobster, mayonnaise, lemon, and chives and served on buttered brioche and King’s Hawaiian rolls, respectively.
“The ingredients that I’m working with are so high quality. It’s a shame to see somebody take some Maine lobster and cover it in avocado and Sriracha,” Duksta says. “I like to let the ingredients shine for themselves.”
Another fan favorite is the New England clam chowder, which Duksta adapted from his father’s recipe using Rhode Island quahog clams, though this version is “a lot less healthy and a lot more delicious,” he says.
“I’ve got two customers from Rhode Island, and they told me that the chowder I make takes them right back to Monahan’s Dock, which is a famous place in Rhode Island for chowder. Hearing that was a really special thing for me,” Duksta says.
For private events, Duksta also will host lobster boils for large groups featuring the same mash-up of surf, turf, and vegetables he grew up watching his father make for friends and family.
Since starting his one-man venture, Duksta estimates he’s shucked more than 10,000 oysters — and it’s only just the beginning. A Shuck Truck trailer is under construction, while Duksta ultimately hopes to open a deli-meets-fish market in Truckee in the future.
“Growing up, we’d go to the grocery store and I’d say, ‘Dad, why do we have to go to the fish market after this?’ He said, ‘Because we don’t buy our fish at the grocery store, all right?’” Duksta recalls. “It’s a tradition. There’s so much history in New England, and I’m happy to be sharing a part of it through food.”
For details, visit Shucktruckcatering.com.
Claire McArthur is a freelance writer and oyster fiend. One of her favorite food memories is sitting at a picnic table at Hog Island Oyster Farm shucking oysters and sipping a sauvignon blanc while looking out at the bay. Invite her to your next lobster boil at Clairecudahy@gmail.com.
