These local French fry offerings are a cut above the rest.
This July, we will celebrate the most American of holidays. I’m talking about National French Fry Day on July 13th, obviously.
And for good reason. French fries, I would argue, are just about the perfect food. They’re incredibly versatile — whether they’re shoestrings, steak, wedge cut, waffle cut, or curly. Any way you slice ’em, they make a great handheld snack all on their own or as a canvas for any topping and are equally at home in a greasy paper bag or served alongside a filet at your favorite upscale eatery.
Here in the Reno-Tahoe area, we’re blessed to have some damn fine fries, both plain and all gussied up. Here are some we suggest savoring this summer.
Let’s start in Midtown Reno.
1. The area is home to a restaurant with fries that recently were voted Best of Northern Nevada in the Reno News & Review’s annual readers’ poll: Noble Pie Parlor (with a second location at The Summit in South Reno).
Owner Ryan Goldhammer explains that when he added fries to his primarily-pizza menu in 2012, he hand cut them, but he quickly discovered it resulted in food waste when those cut potatoes went unused. It was easy to get the exact size and texture he was looking for from his source for a frozen fry that’s slightly thicker than your average shoestring, so it cooks up crispy on the outside and creamy inside — just right for his famous Parmesan-garlic fries and, of course, Frachos.
The former is a blend of tons of fresh, minced garlic and grated Parmesan cheese, served with ketchup and Noble Pie’s own house-made ranch, containing just a dollop of Sriracha and Parmesan cheese for distinctive flavor, thick texture, and a touch of spice.
Modeled after New Jersey-born disco fries, which are typically coated in gravy and cheese for late-night snacking, Frachos start with a base of fries covered in that Parmesan-garlic blend, plus red bell pepper, green onion, melted mozzarella, Sriracha-ranch dressing, and Noble Pie’s creamy, spicy, Pittsburgh (’Burg)-style wing sauce. Those thick fries have no trouble standing up to all that sauce, while the cheese keeps them insulated against sogginess and adds chewiness. The wing sauce has plenty of heat, but it’s balanced by the cool ranch.
2. Just upstairs from Noble Pie sits Arario, the Korean-fusion restaurant owned by TJ and Hani Cho that consistently makes Yelp’s list of best restaurants in Reno. Its kimchee fries helped it get there.
Their creation was “an accident,” TJ says. Arario began in 2016 as a food trailer at summer’s Food Truck Friday event at Reno’s Idlewild Park, selling rice bowls. The Chos decided Arario needed an offering that could be eaten from hands as people walked. They took a quick inventory of ingredients they had on hand — frozen fries, cheese, kimchee, bulgogi beef. Voilà! Kimchee fries were born, and they became a huge hit, making it a permanent menu item when the restaurant opened the following year.
Today, they’re Arario’s best-selling dish. On a bed of fries is piled beef bulgogi, spicy/vinegary kimchee, a simple nacho cheese sauce, Cheddar and jack cheeses, teriyaki sauce, and spicy mayo. It’s crispy, savory, salty, umami, spicy, creamy, cheesy, tangy — a truly addictive, crave-worthy concoction.
3. Just east on Wells Avenue is Von Bismarck, a German pub with one of the best patios in Reno. Sip a cold brew as the delicious scents of meats in the outdoor smoker waft over you, and share a plate of curry fries with your companions.
“Almost every table orders the fries,” says chef Austin Ovard. “Germans love curry. A lot of their street food involves fries with bratwurst, covered in curry ketchup.”
Ovard says the entire menu was designed with an emphasis on simplicity, so the flavors of quality ingredients shine through. He and his staff hand cut the potatoes thinly, leaving the skins on, then toss them in a secret blend of curry and other spices and fry them to order. Crispy and spicy-sweet, they’re served with house-made smoky curry ketchup and a light, creamy, garlicky aioli — elegantly simple and delicious.
4. On Center Street in Midtown, you’ll find Brasserie Saint James, a rustic, European-style brewpub serving … a Canadian delicacy? It’s poutine, which French Canadians tend to think of as their unofficial national dish: French fries topped with cheese curds and brown gravy.
Brasserie’s version starts with a three-eighths-inch, straight-cut, crispy fry — on their own they’re yummy, served with Brasserie’s house-made sauces (peppery ketchup, lemon aioli, and on request, a creamy beer cheese or whole-grain mustard). In poutine they’re hearty and mouthwatering, topped with thick, chewy Cheddar cheese curds and your choice of mushroom or pork gravy.
As General Manager Zak Girdis explains, pork gravy is a classic part of poutine. Brasserie’s version is made with juices from the restaurant’s slow-roasted pork, along with celery, carrots, herbs, seasonings, and a thickening roux, blended until smooth for a slightly peppery, creamy, almost smoky gravy. The mushroom gravy, Girdis adds, also is beloved among those who have discovered its rich, earthy flavor.
5. If you’re into poutine, a stop at Washoe Public House, in Downtown Reno, is imperative. Order the rock candy short rib poutine. You’ll thank me. It starts with a base of sweet potato waffle fries so crispy and chewy that they easily stand up to the plentiful bounty of toppings in this extraordinary dish.
Owner/chef Brett Moseley explains that it started as a way to use the leftover meat from the restaurant’s short-rib entrées. They’re braised in Asian seasonings (ginger, lemongrass, garlic, and other herbs and vegetables) and rock candy sugar, at low temperature, for 18 hours. The sugar slowly melts, caramelizing the meat, which is then refrigerated in the braising liquid overnight to retain plenty of moisture. The decadent meat is fork tender, with a marvelously sweet (but not too sweet), indulgent flavor. It’s piled onto the fries, along with melty white Cheddar cheese curds and that amazing gravy.
Not to be outdone, the restaurant’s Irish nachos also are a delicious dish for sharing. Moseley alternates layers of extra-crispy, waffle-cut russet potato fries with melted jack, Cheddar, and smoked Gouda cheeses, so that every bite has cheese. They’re topped with chopped, crispy bacon, a sour cream drizzle, and chopped chives. The result is satisfyingly cheesy, creamy, smoky, and crunchy.
Now let’s head to South Reno.
6. After the workday is done, in-the-know locals visit Bistro Napa at Atlantis Casino Resort Spa for its social hour. One of the most popular items on its menu is the sexy fries.
As assistant executive chef David Holman explains, these thinly cut potatoes are fried not once, but up to three times to achieve the extra-crispy texture folks crave. They’re tossed in a simple, delicious blend of white truffle oil, Parmesan cheese (both shredded and grated), salt, and pepper. The flavor of truffle often can overwhelm a dish, but on the sexy fries, it’s just right — light and distinctive, but well balanced with the cheese. Because of this subtlety, the fries pair beautifully with many of the restaurant’s signature dishes, including the beloved prime rib slider.
Mine arrived in a large, parchment-lined basket that appeared too large for me to finish, but I was digging for crumbs at the bottom in no time.
7. Further down South Virginia Street, The Parlor is a casual sports bar with a cozy pub vibe and delicious food, including the royal poutine, made with the restaurant’s extraordinary sidewinder fries, which are cut in thick spirals.
Chef Hugo Castillo Ruiz prides himself on the poutine’s made-in-house toppings, from the pico de gallo and enchilada sauce to the jalapeño cheese sauce, made with buffalo sauce, jalapeño juice, jack and Cheddar cheeses, white wine, and black pepper. On top comes a generous dollop of Castillo’s house-made, savory pork tinga. It’s flavorful, rich, and filling.
8. Craving a classic burger with fries? Head down to Burger Me at The Summit mall (or to West Reno, Truckee, or South Lake Tahoe). I’ve sung the burgers’ praises (see “Burger Bucket List” in our Summer 2020 issue), but about those French fries… They’re made with skin-on, medium-cut, natural Idaho potatoes, imparting a delicious, natural flavor. They’re exactly right for the garlic-Parmesan fries. Extra-virgin olive oil, shredded and grated Parmesan, and plenty of minced garlic are blended together, decadently coating the fries.
As co-owner Tom Farina says, “We’re not shy with the garlic and Parmesan.”
As for the sweet potato fries, they’re crispy, crunchy, and nicely sweet — not oily or soggy but practically perfect.
Sparks brings its own fry game.
9. At Pyramid Highway and Los Altos sits the newest location of Crab Boiling Seafood, owned by the Martinez family — husband-and-wife team Norma and Carlos, and Carlos’ brother Oscar — and established in Midtown Reno in 2020. Built on the concept of fresh, high-quality seafood served in low-country-boil style (see our Summer 2021 feature, “It’s a Southern Thing”), the restaurant’s offerings also include a mouthwatering selection of fry dishes.
Oscar explains that the potatoes are tossed in rice starch before deep frying, which provides an extra-crispy coating that’s not at all greasy. Then, like the restaurant’s seafood boils, customization is available. Eat your fries (regular or sweet potato) plain, or toss ’em in lemon pepper, Cajun, or garlic-Parmesan seasoning (the latter is the most popular). Dip them in one of the restaurant’s signature sauces, such as ranch or Sriracha cheese.
Then there are the loaded fries, a heavenly combination of those crispy fries topped with Sriracha cheese sauce, grated Parmesan, jack, and Cheddar. Then comes chopped parsley and your choice of crab or lobster meat — generous chunks of quality meat from Sierra Gold Seafood. With a great balance of flavors, they are rich and indulgent without turning into a soggy mess.
10. Looking for some fries that kick ass? Visit BJ’s Nevada Barbecue Co. Owner/executive chef Jay Rathmann’s award-winning barbecue joint features various winning combinations of ingredients he and his team have perfected — including smoked barbecue meats, hand-cut potatoes, a creamy house-made cheese sauce, and some well-chosen produce. The restaurant’s kick-ass fry menu, which is as long as my arm, is a testament to what just a few well-placed, quality ingredients can do.
BJ’s staff starts with hand-cut russet potatoes (at least 2,000 pounds a week), deep fried to order. The menu progressively adds toppings thoughtfully chosen to stimulate every part of your palate with flavor and texture. The original kick-ass fries feature BJ’s seasoned pulled pork, Cheddar cheese, BJ’s signature barbecue sauce, sour cream, and green onions. And make no mistake, those last two items are essential, adding cool creaminess and a fresh, oniony bite, which are the ideal balance for the savory pork and rich cheese.
Other fry dishes — with names like bad ass, crazy ass, jack ass, and smart ass — offer different meats (brisket, ribs, roast beef, or made-in-house Louisiana hot links), beans, peppers, veggies, and heat (ghost peppers, anyone?). Not to be missed are the hot-ass fries, with thin slices of those tender, savory hot links for a delightfully sweet-hot dish with a satisfying balance of textures.
11. Another Sparks mainstay is Great Basin Brewing Co., founded in Victorian Square with additional locations in South Reno and Carson City. As you’re sipping a cold beer at this award-winning brewpub, try the perfect accompaniment: beer-battered fries, made with the lightest of beer-batter coatings that seals the potatoes when fried, keeping them moist and soft inside and with a nice light crunch outside. This helps them stand up to the garlic, melted butter, salt, parsley, and Parmesan (grated and shredded) on the brewery’s garlic-Parmesan fries. And they can hold their own as part of the restaurant’s famous ribs or brewery fish-and-chips dishes.
With such an extensive list of fabulous local fries to celebrate, every day this summer can be French Fry Day!
RESOURCES
Arario Arariomidtown.com
Bistro Napa Atlantiscasino.com/dining/fine-dining/atlantis-bistro-napa
BJ’s Nevada Barbecue Co. Bjsbbq.com
Brasserie Saint James Brasseriesaintjames.com
Burger Me Burgermeusa.com
Great Basin Brewing Co. Greatbasinbrewingco.com
Mr. Crab Boiling Seafood Mrcrabreno.com
Noble Pie Parlor Noblepieparlor.com
The Parlor Theparlorreno.com/menus/food-menu
Von Bismarck Vbreno.com
Washoe Public House Washoepublichouse.com
RECIPE
French Fries
(courtesy of Lara Ritchie, culinary director, Nothing To It! Culinary Center in Reno. Serves 4 to 8)
Craving French fries but don’t feel like going out to get them? Now you don’t have to! Lara Ritchie, culinary director at Nothing To It! Culinary Center in Reno, offers this simple, delicious recipe for making fries at home.
4 russet potatoes (4 to 5 inches long each)
2 quarts vegetable oil
1 tablespoon fine-grain sea salt
Peel the potatoes and then cut into ⅓-inch-by-⅓-inch slices. A mandolin would be a great tool for this task.
Place cut potatoes in a bowl of water and let soak for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours in refrigerator. This will keep potatoes from oxidizing and gets rid of extra starch. Drain well, then rinse and dry potatoes.
Heat oil in cast-iron Dutch oven to 325 degrees F. Carefully add handful or so of potato slices to oil. Let cook 5 to 7 minutes. You may need to stir potatoes once to keep them from sticking to each other. Cook until lightly browned. Remove from oil and lay on a wire rack nesting in a baking sheet. Let sit for 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours.
Raise temperature of oil to 350 degrees F. Fry potatoes once again, until golden brown. Remove from oil, place on wire rack to drain, then put fries in a bowl and toss with salt. Enjoy!
