Relishing fleeting gifts of summer.
For many of us, the words “summer foods” make us think of steaks on the grill, corn on the cob, or watermelon. But what about squash blossoms? You may not yet know it, but one of the best, and also most fleeting, summer foods is the humble yellow and orange flower that grows on a zucchini plant. Growing up in Tracy, Calif., Noel Trevino was surrounded by great produce from nearby farms in the Central Valley and part of a local community that fully embraced the Mexican table. She also is part of a boisterous family that loves to cook together.
Squash blossoms, which have a mild squash flavor and are in season in late spring through late summer, are prominent in Mexican cuisine but also are connected to Native American and other Mediterranean recipes. Trevino and her family often use these ephemeral summer flowers as they do natively in Oaxaca, folding them into delectable quesadillas or turning them into fritters, bathed in a red sauce redolent with chile and garlic. These flores de calabaza, or squash blossoms, are treasured for their delicate but impermanent nature and are a frequently used item in the Trevinos’ summertime dishes.
Now Trevino, who moved to Reno in 2013, and her husband, Chris, are frequent entertainers, hosting an annual Master’s Tournament, golf-themed party renowned in all of South Reno, eating al fresco as often as possible and generally enjoying the best that the seasons can offer. But one detail that hasn’t changed is her love of those recipes she grew up with and cooking for her family and friends. Squash blossoms feature prominently in several of them.
Though the blossoms are sometimes difficult to find, she can usually locate them at the Riverside Farmers Market in Reno or other local farmers’ markets, as well as at the Great Basin Community Food Co-op in Downtown Reno. They can be eaten raw on salads, and they’re delicious sautéed. When making appetizers or hosting small parties, Trevino also will occasionally stuff, batter, and fry them and serve them with a dash of Tajín powder and a squeeze of lime. But regardless of the preparation, they are sure to be delicious and a new summertime favorite.
Trevino notes that the blossoms are easy to work with. To prepare the blossoms, she gently brushes off any dirt (similar to working with mushrooms), and should she need to wash them, she rinses only the bottom (stem) portions with cold water before gently patting them dry. Before cooking, she uses scissors to snip out the stamens (small stalks) found inside the flowers, and then they are ready to cook.
Squash blossoms are highly perishable, so she shares that it’s best to eat them the same day you purchase them, but they also can be kept for one to three days if carefully wrapped in a slightly damp paper towel and stored in the refrigerator’s crisper drawer.
As the weather warms and you see these edible jewels in your garden or at the local outdoor markets, make sure to pick some up and enjoy them. They are delicious, momentary, and, as Trevino says, “like summer on a plate.”
Squash Blossom Quesadillas
(courtesy of Noel Trevino of Reno. Serves 2)
1 teaspoon light oil
6 squash blossoms, cleaned, with stamens and stems removed
2 flour tortillas
⅔ cup Oaxaca cheese (mozzarella can be substituted), divided
¼ cup crumbled queso fresco, divided
1 tablespoon green onions, thinly sliced
Optional: 1 jalapeño or Fresno pepper, sliced and seeds removed
On a comal or in nonstick skillet, heat ½ teaspoon of oil. Place 1 tortilla on cooking surface and scatter ½ of the Oaxacan cheese and about ½ of the queso fresco evenly over ½ of the tortilla. Add some of the peppers (if using) and sliced green onions, then lay 3 squash blossoms in a row over cheeses. This makes up the filling of 1 quesadilla. Fold the other ½ of the tortilla over the top of the filling, then cook over medium heat until tortilla is golden on the bottom and the cheese is melted, about 2 to 3 minutes per side (be careful not to burn the tortilla). Repeat with the other tortilla and remaining ingredients. Slice into diagonal pieces and garnish with lime wedges and your favorite green salsa. Serve immediately.
Squash and Blossom Frittata
(courtesy of Crystal León, co-owner, The Radish Hotel in Sparks. Serves 3 to 4)
“This is a very basic recipe to get you started,” León says. “The wonderful thing about a frittata is that you can make it as simple or as elaborate as you want. A humble frittata with just five to six ingredients can easily be adapted to include more vegetables, flavorful cheeses, or even cured meats if desired.”
6 organic eggs
8 to 10 squash blossoms
2 small squash
½ cup organic milk (If using a non-dairy milk, use one that does not impart much flavor)
1 tablespoon butter or olive oil
½ onion, diced
½ teaspoon salt, divided
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
Place a cast-iron skillet on the stove over medium heat. Add oil to the skillet, and once hot, add onion and give it a stir. Thinly slice the squash and add to skillet. Sprinkle vegetables with ¼ teaspoon salt. While onion and squash are cooking (just until onions are translucent), crack eggs into bowl and whisk together with milk and remaining salt. Pour mixture into skillet and cook 5 to 7 minutes, allowing egg mixture to set on the sides and bottom.
Using a spatula, push egg mixture away from sides of skillet, allowing more of the liquid mixture to reach the surface of the skillet. At this stage, if you intend to add cheese to your frittata, this is the time to do so.
Arrange squash blossoms on top of egg mixture in a circle, taking care not to press them down too firmly. Bake frittata for 10 to 15 minutes. When frittata is done, the center will no longer be wobbly, and it will be golden brown along the edges. If taking a temperature, you want your finished frittata to be 160 degrees F. Allow to sit for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing.
