ICE CREAM DREAM
HERE’S THE LOCAL SCOOP ON A SUMMER FAVORITE.
WRITTEN BY JESSICA SANTINA
PHOTO BY JEFF ROSS
Ever notice how your priorities change in the summer? The important things in life now include making time to sip a cold drink on the deck, the difference between charcoal and gas grills, finding the perfect piece of fruit, and licking around the edge of your ice cream cone before the sticky drips begin to roll down your arm. And not just any ice cream will do — only velvety, creamy, homemade ice cream, with real chunks of fruit or hunks of cookie, served lovingly by people who made it themselves just yesterday.
Here in Northern Nevada, there are people who share your priorities — people who make ice cream the old-fashioned way, from scratch with natural ingredients. And you definitely can taste the difference.
FRESH FLAVORS
“Old-fashioned” was what Steve Cordes of New York had in mind when he brought his 20 years of experience running a traditional soda shop in Staten Island to Fernley, Nev., where he could afford to run his own ice cream shop. He opened Steve’s Homemade Ice Cream in May 2008. And the community has welcomed him (and his homemade ice cream, Italian ices, whipped cream, and toppings such as fudge, caramel, and butterscotch) with open arms.
His ice cream, made on the premises, comes from nothing more than a base of cream, milk, and sugar, along with flavorings such as real cookie pieces, fudge, or peanut butter, or all-natural ingredients such as nuts and fruits. Each batch takes roughly two days to make, from start to scoop.
Steve’s 24 regular flavors range from vanilla to peach (made with real peach chunks), maple walnut, cookies and cream, and rocky road. Four additional, seasonal flavors, such as pumpkin for the holidays, usually are available, too.
In the tradition of the old soda shop, Steve’s Homemade Ice Cream is served from metal dishes, at tables and booths roomy enough to cool you down on a hot day.
AUTHENTIC GELATO
Kristina Zertuche’s and Steve Godsell’s Bijous Yogurt & Gelato Kafé in Sparks also is rooted in tradition. A native of Chicago, Zertuche grew up on traditional, authentic gelato, made with only milk, sugar, and a little cream, along with either fresh ingredients or flavor paste. Gelato, she explains, contains more milk than cream (and thus less fat) as well as less air, making gelato more dense than ice cream. And because it’s served at a slightly warmer temperature, “you don’t get brain freeze from it,” Zertuche says.
In addition to six flavors of yogurt, gelato made daily by Zertuche and Godsell is the house specialty. The two are graduates of Gelato University at Carpigiani, manufacturer of gelato-making equipment. Natural ingredients include pistachios and hazelnuts imported from Italy, strawberries purchased that morning at the local market, and even real cookie chunks. Bijous’ extraordinary flavors include birthday cake (made with real, fresh pieces of cake and butter cream frosting), strawberry cheesecake, and even caramel maple bacon (“It’s like when your bacon falls into your syrup at breakfast,” Zertuche says). The rarely seen soft-serve gelato also is available.
Bijous’ owners also take requests for flavor combinations. Past requests that have made it to the menu include PB&J, black sesame and raspberry, and caramelized pear and mascarpone.
TAHOE CREAMERY RETURNS
Different flavors have been a hallmark of Tahoe Creamery, and fans were crestfallen when the company closed last fall, a victim of the economy. Ice Cream Maker Greg Hoch moved on to other opportunities.
Fortunately, Garrett Sutton, president, restarted the Tahoe Creamery brand in February of this year, with the help of Ryan Ruiz, director of business development, and Merlin Manley, director of operations and a graduate of Penn State’s Ice Cream Short Course, the nation’s premier ice cream-making program. Tahoe Creamery ice cream, manufactured by High Sierra Ice Cream in Minden, now is available again, in roughly 40 to 45 flavors. And it can be found in scoop shops such as Gear & Grind Café in Tahoe City, restaurants such as Squeeze In in Reno and Truckee, and Scolari’s grocery store. Agreements with other stores are in the works.
Tahoe Creamery’s trademark flavors –– blueberry, mud pie, and coffee toffee –– include fresh, locally produced fruit and milk (when available). And they are made with 14 percent butter fat, making it a premium ice cream. With just 40 to 50 percent of air per pint, the result is rich, dense, and creamy. Plus, while most store-bought ice creams are a month or more old by the time they reach your freezer, Tahoe Creamery’s was made just a few days ago.
So, sure, you could buy ice cream anywhere. But as Kristina Zertuche explains, with homemade ice cream, “there’s passion in it.” And that’s definitely a priority.
Jessica Santina is a local freelance writer, editor, and college writing instructor whose favorite ice cream flavor is mint chocolate chip.
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MAKE YOUR OWN (Your Favorite) Fruit Ice Cream Custard ingredients Fruit ingredients Instructions Bring cream and 1/4 cup sugar just to a boil in a 2- to 4-quart heavy saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, cover, and keep hot. Beat together yolks, salt, and 3 tablespoons sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at high speed. Beat until tripled in volume and thick enough to form a ribbon that takes 2 seconds to dissolve into mixture when beaters are lifted, 3 to 4 minutes in a stand mixer, or 4 to 8 with a handheld. Reduce mixer speed to low and add hot cream mixture to yolks in a slow stream. Transfer custard back to saucepan. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until custard is slightly thickened and registers 170°F on thermometer (do not let boil). Pour custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a large heatproof bowl, discarding solids. Let custard cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. While the custard cools: Stir peaches (or other favorite fruit) together with sugar and lemon juice in a bowl. While you cool the cooked custard, transfer the peaches (or other favorite fruit) and liquid in the bowl to a 2-quart heavy saucepan and boil, covered, over high heat, stirring, 10 minutes. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes more. Purée the hot mixture in a blender (careful!) until smooth, about 1 minute. Force it through a sieve into the custard mixture, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon and discarding them. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract and freeze custard in ice cream maker. Transfer to an airtight container and put in freezer to harden, at least 4 hours. Note: Put the storage bowl in the freezer ahead of time so it’s nice and cold when the ice cream goes in. For a fantastic fall/winter ice cream, replace the fruit with the juice from 3/4 pounds of your favorite citrus, such as Meyer lemon. The juice will quickly reduce down so decrease the cooking time as necessary and remove the pot from the heat when two or three tablespoons remain. |
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WHERE TO GO The following locations offer homemade ice cream, gelato, and frozen yogurt 5th Street Bakehouse Bijous Yogurt & Gelato Kafé Mmmmm Yogurt Steve’s Homemade Ice Cream Tahoe Creamery |
