liquid assets
HOMEGROWN BREWPUBS
The Brewer’s Cabinet and Brasserie Saint James add to Reno’s beer scene.
WRITTEN BY MARC TIAR
PHOTOS BY CHRIS HOLLOMAN
One is in a historical building on Center Street in Reno’s up-and-coming Midtown District. The other is in a former florist shop next door to a church on Arlington Avenue. Both were opened by young beer-loving bar owners, with existing businesses mere blocks from one another. After extensive remodeling of both properties, Reno now is home to two new brewpubs. Welcome to Brasserie Saint James and The Brewer’s Cabinet.
Step into either place and you’re welcomed by old wood charm. In the case of Brasserie Saint James, nearly all the wood used was reclaimed during the remodel of the 1929 building it occupies (formerly housing Crystal Springs Water Co.). Floors became ceilings, walls became tables, and stones dug from the property became fireplaces. The Brewer’s Cabinet salvaged wood from the Angora Fire at South Lake Tahoe and old barns from the surrounding region.
| Art Farley of Brasserie Saint James in Reno |
Beer Pioneer
Brasserie Saint James Owner Art Farley is not only an accomplished home brewer, he also is a pioneer in bringing great beer to town. When he opened his bar, Saint James Infirmary in Reno, he challenged beer distributors to get distinguished beers here. Now he wants to expand the palates of local beer drinkers and put Reno on the beer map. With his love of delicate European lagers, farmhouse saisons, and Belgians, he wants to change the notion that beers have to be high in alcohol, loaded with hops, or darker than motor oil to be good.
Some of Farley’s first brews went into an assortment of used wine and whiskey barrels, aging them until sour or absorbing subtle nuances of the prior contents. Looking ahead, Farley’s vision of the future includes a local, fresh hop ale using his homegrown hops and bottling and distributing that ale throughout the western states. To complement his beers, Farley created a restaurant menu that harkens back to the classic brasseries of France, serving lunch and dinner dishes such as steak frites and mussels.
Editor’s note: Brasserie Saint James now expects to open by the end of September.
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| From left, Mike Connolly and Chris Kahl of The Brewer’s Cabinet in Reno |
Experimental Batches
A short drive away at The Brewer’s Cabinet, brewers Justin Sibley and David Duffy use a smaller system. Their philosophy is to be nimble, trying new recipes often, shaking things up with experimental batches regularly. While most brewpubs would play it safe and open with standards like an IPA, stout, and amber ale, the first house beers available here were a cask-matured light sour beer, a barrel-aged barleywine, and a triple IPA weighing in at 11 percent alcohol. On the food side, chef Ben Deinken’s goal with the menu is to keep it as local, organic, and seasonal as he can. House-baked bread, crayfish from Tahoe Lobster Co. (see edible Reno-Tahoe’s summer issue), and, eventually, a vegetable and hop garden on the grounds are among the highlights.
In addition to operating Sierra Tap House, Ole Bridge Pub, and Legends Bar and Grill in Reno, owners Michael Connolly, Chris Kahl, and Zach Cage are continuing their Reno Rebuild Project. This involves donating 5 cents from each item sold to a local small business loan fund.
Of course, any new restaurant has to have outdoor seating, and both spots satisfy in this area. The Brewer’s Cabinet opens a garage door onto a lovely patio, which eventually will have its own bar and barbecue. Brasserie Saint James, like its sister bar, has an extraordinary rooftop deck with a view of the surrounding mountains, as well as a street-level beer garden.
For beer lovers, both spots feature their own regular and seasonal releases as well as a number of guest beers on draft. The Brewer’s Cabinet also regularly features one or more beers “on cask,” naturally carbonated in the keg with living yeast, served without external pressure.
Whether you consider yourself a foodie or a beer connoisseur, or just want a great beer, both Brasserie Saint James and The Brewer’s Cabinet should be at the top of your list for your next meal or pint.
Marc Tiar is a local beer lover, librarian, and family man. He hopes to help bring great beer to the masses through occasional freelance writing.
Resources
Brasserie Saint James
901 S. Center St., Reno
775-348-8888
www.Brasseriesaintjames.com
The Brewer’s Cabinet
475 S. Arlington Ave., Reno
775-348-7481
www.Thebrewerscabinet.com
