cooks at home
BRINGING ITALY TO THE TABLE
Reno chef Ivano Centemeri enjoys sharing his culture and cuisine.
WRITTEN BY ERIN MEYERING
PHOTO BY CHRIS HOLLOMAN
There is nothing better than well-executed Italian food. Handmade pasta with a creamy, exquisitely seasoned tomato sauce, topped with fresh basil and mozzarella, is a perfect dish, both for its robust and satisfying taste and ideal marriage of pure and simple ingredients.
Ivano Centemeri, executive chef at Eldorado Hotel Casino’s La Strada restaurant in Reno, has been bringing these and other bold Italian flavors to area eateries since 1995.
Born and raised in Monza, Italy, near Milan, Centemeri came to Reno deeply rooted in the culinary treasures of his home country. He shares his culture through thoughtful food and a big, warm personality. He’s happy that people enjoy learning about his background.
“They get it and they love it,” he says.
Starting early
Centemeri began his cooking endeavors at just 15 years old, when, after the required amount of schooling, he enrolled in culinary school to make cooking his career path.
When he travels back to Italy to visit his family, he admits he still is the chef.
“Of course, when I go home, my mom totally forgets how to cook,” Centemeri says.
During his homebound travels, he prefers to cook with ingredients that he may not be able to find as easily here in the U.S. His go-to is fresh fish, such as prawns.
“When I go back to Italy, I love to go to the [freshest] fish market,” Centemeri says. “Everything is still jumping.”
When cooking for himself, Centemeri isn’t picky. He enjoys a variety of cuisines, including Mexican, Asian, and American barbecue. His fiancée Elizabeth Stewart (they will be married in August), however, prefers his Italian cuisine.
Cultural offerings
In addition to indulging in the cooking process at work and at home, Centemeri works with the owners of arte italia to further share his culture with others. The Italian arts and culinary center is devoted to the preservation of historical Italian traditions and heritage. A huge part of any culture is the cuisine, which is why several times a year the center hosts chefs from around Italy to demonstrate authentic cooking from their respective regions. This is where Centemeri’s expertise comes in. He has traveled several times with Arte Italia chairman Raymond C. Avansino Jr., to hand-select chefs from Italy to take part in special cooking demonstrations at the Reno center.
Although chefs chosen may be selected from particular regions in Italy specifically for their allegiance to tradition, Centemeri always is open to learning about different processes and techniques from his peers.
“It’s a learning experience,” Centemeri explains.
When first diving into the culinary world here, he was in a transition from heavy, traditional Italian foods to lighter, more health-conscious foods. He has since expanded his ideas concerning Italian cuisine to include lighter cheeses, lean meats, and a variety of ingredients.
His advice to home cooks simply is not to limit yourself or what you share with others. Be open, he insists, even if you have a traditional way of preparing certain dishes.
“I like to be a sponge,” Centemeri says. “I don’t like to be stuck [cooking and preparing the same things].”
Erin Meyering is a recent graduate of the University of Nevada, Reno’s journalism school. In addition to frequently indulging at the various Italian restaurants in town, she hopes to experiment more in the kitchen, including with savory Italian dishes and new ingredients.
If you’re eager to be inspired by chef Ivano Centemeri, head to Eldorado Resort Casino’s La Strada to try the special Chefs Tasting Menu, which varies weekly and is prepared to order by Centemeri himself. Then recreate and experiment at home.
Saltimbocca alla Romana con Carciofi e Mentuccia (Roman-style Veal Saltimbocca with Artichokes and Mint)
(courtesy of Ivano Centemeri. Serves 4)
1 veal tenderloin, pounded thin
4 slices Parma ham (or prosciutto)
8 sage leaves
¼ cup 00-type flour
1½ cups white wine
4 artichokes, leaves removed and hearts reserved and sliced in half
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves
4 tablespoons fresh mint
Parsley, minced
2 tablespoons anchovies
1/3 cup vegetable stock
4 toothpicks
In a large stockpot over medium to medium-low heat, add 1/3 of the olive oil, garlic, salt, mint, anchovies, white wine, and vegetable stock. Cover and let cook 15 to 20 minutes.
Place one sage leaf on each side of veal cutlet and wrap in Parma ham. Use a toothpick if needed to secure.
In a large sauté pan, melt butter and then add the rest of the olive oil. In a separate, low-sided dish, place flour for frying. Cover each cutlet with flour and tap to remove excess. Fry cutlets in the sauté pan in a single layer, making sure none overlaps. Let brown on each side 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pan to create a creamy sauce. When cutlets are almost cooked, add the rest of the white wine and continue to shake the pan until veal is done.
Sprinkle with parsley. Plate with 1 artichoke heart and 1 veal cutlet, and dress with remaining pan sauce.
