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SQUASH STAR
Chef Mark May puts the gourd in gourmet.
WRITTEN BY ANN LINDEMANN
PHOTOS BY JEFF ROSS
Any way you slice it, squash is a versatile vegetable. It comes in all shapes, colors, and sizes, as well as in different seasons: summer and winter. Winter squash varieties can be substituted for each other in many recipes, as we discovered when we asked executive chef Mark May of 1862 David Walley’s Restaurant and Saloon in Genoa to select winter squashes and create recipes for our readers.
May has a lot on his plate these days. David Walley’s Resort, where he also is the general manager, is celebrating its 150-year anniversary this year. Though May is in the kitchen from early morning through the evening, he graciously agreed to share his squash savvy.
“Cooking with squash requires a certain finesse,” he says. “There is a great deal of difference in moisture content and size with squashes. Cooks need to make allowance for this. If you have too much squash for the recipe, be creative with the leftovers.”
Squash Ravioli
We learned this lesson and enjoyed the results when we made the chef’s Spaghetti Squash Ravioli.
Most squash ravioli contains butternut squash. But, with this recipe, May gives us something different and delicious to sink our teeth into. The fine texture of spaghetti-like squash threads —combined with sage, chives, Gorgonzola, and herbed walnuts — creates a distinctive appetizer. Here’s how he does it:
Bake the squash while preparing walnuts, sautéed to a golden brown and then tossed with Italian herbs. These walnuts are so tasty, you’ll be glad the recipe makes more than you need for the ravioli, so you can use them another time.
When the baked squash has cooled, carefully fork out the spaghetti-like flesh and measure the amount needed for the ravioli filling.
“Spaghetti squash has a lot more moisture content than other squashes, so measuring can be a bit tricky,” May says.
He suggests using a kitchen scale or, if you must, pack it carefully into a measuring cup so as not to break the delicate strands. Save the extra squash for another meal or double the recipe, as we did. The extra squash filling makes a yummy cold salad or side dish, dressed with the chef’s signature vinaigrette.
Once you’ve measured and gently tossed the squash with the other ingredients, it’s time to make ravioli. May’s simple solution is packaged wonton skins, available in most markets. Place a tight ball of filling on each wonton, cover it with another, cut to crimp the edges, and voilà! Raviolis are ready to cook quickly in gently boiling water.
Arugula, crisp sage leaves, and a Beurre Noisette Vinaigrette top the ravioli. Make the vinaigrette from the chef’s recipe, which you can find at Ediblerenotahoe.com. You’ll also find recipes for the sauces that complete May’s Roasted Quail and Kabocha Squash Pancake at Ediblerenotahoe.com.
Squash Pancake
Kabocha makes an extraordinary and flavorful pancake in the hands of May.
“It’s a bit softer and pithier than an acorn squash, with a rich, nutty taste that stands up well to strong flavors,” he says.
We wholeheartedly agreed after tasting the Kabocha pancake, with an adaptation of his roasted quail marinated with garlic and rosemary and stuffed with goat cheese. Quail is not standard fare in most home kitchens, so we followed his recommendation of using chicken breasts as an alternative. Recipes for both the quail and chicken are available at Ediblerenotahoe.com.
The procedure for the Kabocha pancake couldn’t be easier. Quarter, seed, and roast the squash. When it is done and cooled, scoop it from the skins and into a blender with eggs, baking powder, flour, and mint. Then add the ingredient that makes these pancakes so special: coarsely chopped pistachio nuts. Cook and enjoy as the chef presents them, or as a super side dish with your favorite chicken or pork recipe.
This great use of squash might also entice reluctant children to eat their vegetables. A little maple syrup, maybe? It’s a pancake and a vegetable packed with antioxidants and vitamins — a win-win all around. Kudos to Chef Mark May, and bon appétit to us all!
Longtime foodie and freelance writer Marnie McArthur loved being in the kitchen with Chef Mark May’s recipes. She says there’s no better way to spend a day than cooking, eating, and writing.
Spaghetti Squash Ravioli
(courtesy of Mark May, serves 6)
1 small spaghetti squash, about 2 pounds
1½ teaspoons fresh sage chiffonade
2 teaspoons fresh chives, minced
¼ cup Gorgonzola, crumbled
1/8 cup herbed walnuts, finely chopped
Salt and black pepper to taste
36 3-by-3-inch wonton skins
1 egg, whisked with 2 tablespoons milk
Semolina (or regular flour)
Arugula
Pierce skin of squash a dozen times with sharp knife. Roast on a heavy cookie sheet at 350 degrees F for about 1 hour, or until skin pierces easily with a fork. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Split squash lengthwise and de-seed. Carefully remove the spaghetti-like flesh with a fork. Measure 10 ounces of squash on a kitchen scale, about 1¼ cups. (Note: Most likely you will have more squash than needed. Reserve this for another use.)
In a bowl, gently toss the measured squash with sage, chives, Gorgonzola, walnuts, salt, and pepper. Take care to minimize breaking the strands. Set aside. Lay out wonton skins on a cutting board dusted with flour. You will need two skins per ravioli. Scoop about a tablespoon of squash filling and roll with hands into a tight ball. Place a ball of filling in center of each of 18 skins. Brush egg mixture liberally around the filling. Place another skin on top. Use the dull side of a cutter, or press between each pouch of filling with fingers, to contain filling. Use a biscuit or ravioli cutter to seal and cut off extra edges. (Note: It is best to make the ravioli in small batches, as the skins will dry out quickly.)
Cook ravioli in gently boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes, or enough to cook wonton and warm squash center.
To serve, moisten a small amount of arugula in vinaigrette (vinaigrette recipe at Ediblerenotahoe.com). Roll into a ball and place one ball in the center of each plate. For each serving, position three ravioli against the ball. Drizzle with vinaigrette. Garnish with sage leaves, crisped by a quick fry in canola oil.
Kabocha Squash Pancakes
(courtesy of Mark May, serves 6)
1 Kabocha squash, about 2 pounds
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 eggs
1/3 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons pistachio nuts, shelled
2 teaspoons fresh mint
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste
Quarter, seed, and place squash in roasting pan. Drizzle with canola oil; season with salt and pepper. Cover pan with foil and roast at 350 degrees F for about 1 hour, or until tender when pierced with a fork. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Scoop squash (about 1½ cups) from skins and put into a blender with eggs and baking powder. Blend until smooth. Add flour and mint; continue blending. Add pistachios, salt, and pepper. Pulse until nuts are coarsely chopped. Thin with a bit of water if needed. Cook six pancakes in olive oil. Hold at room temperature. Microwave briefly to reheat before serving.
