Winter 2025 | Tips & Tricks

The Art of Peking Duck

A local master reveals the tradition, technique, and care that define this ancient dish.

In the memorable Christmas dinner scene from the ’80s film A Christmas Story, the Parker family gathers around a magnificently roasted Chinese duck, a funny and improvised solution to the unexpected loss of their turkey. But that wasn’t just any duck — it was Peking duck, a dish so revered in Chinese cuisine that it immediately transforms an ordinary meal into a ceremonial feast.

Peking duck is far more than simply a roasted duck. This legendary dish represents one of China’s most sophisticated culinary achievements, requiring days of preparation and techniques passed down through generations. The elaborate process begins with air-drying the duck for 24 hours, then brushing it with maltose syrup glaze before hanging it to dry again. This creates the dish’s signature crispy skin with its famous mahogany color and crispy texture when roasted — a dramatic contrast between crackling skin and succulent meat beneath.

Origin of the Feast
The history of Peking duck stretches back hundreds of years to the Yuan Dynasty, when it graced the tables of Chinese emperors in Beijing’s Forbidden City. The ducks were specially raised in the Beijing region and cooked in closed ovens heated by fruit wood, making the dish even more special.

Traditional Peking duck service is as ceremonial as its preparation. According to National Geographic, the duck is brought to the table whole, where it’s carved (often by the chefs themselves) with a special duck-slicing knife into different cuts. The crispy skin is removed in perfect rectangles and the meat sliced into delicious, uniform pieces. Diners watch as their meal transforms from whole bird into delicious portions.

The duck is frequently served with thin, warm pancakes, julienned scallions, cucumber strips, and tianmianjiang (sweet bean sauce). Diners assemble their own bites, spreading sauce on pancakes, adding duck and vegetables before rolling it all up. This interactive element makes the meal communal and engaging.

Beyond these classic accompaniments, many restaurants serve the duck in multiple courses: first, the crispy skin and choicest meat with pancakes, then stir-fried duck meat with vegetables, and, finally, warming soup made from the bones and less-tender meat. This progression allows diners to experience different textures and preparations from a single bird. Such is the case at Kwok’s Bistro in Downtown Reno.

A True Master
The celebratory nature of duck extends beyond preparation to family traditions. Danny Nguyen, whose father, Kwok Chen, owner of Kwok’s Bistro in Reno, is a noted master of the dish, shares a touching custom.

“In Asian culture, whether it be a birthday or a holiday, one of the things that we always fight for is the drumstick. Whoever’s birthday it was got the drumstick first.”

Nguyen, the restaurant’s general manager, adds that at Kwok’s, customers often order Peking duck for date nights or special family celebrations — occasions when people want to treat themselves to something extraordinary.

“Duck is always seen as that luxury ingredient,” he adds.

While some Chinese restaurants in America require 24 to 48 hours advance notice to order the dish, due to the lengthy preparation required, Kwok’s keeps the dish regularly available, though he still recommends calling ahead to guarantee availability.

In smaller cities, including Reno, finding authentic Peking duck might seem unlikely. Yet the growing culinary scene in Reno-Tahoe has created space for traditional dishes prepared with genuine expertise. The Chen family, led by master chef Kwok, represents this commitment to authenticity in serving this special dish. It’s not only beloved by locals; The Travel Channel’s own famed chef and host Andrew Zimmern included Kwok’s Bistro on his show, The Zimmern List, which revealed its host’s personal list of favorite dishes, such as Kwok’s Peking duck.

The Kwok’s team approach demonstrates thoughtful evolution of traditional techniques. While maintaining classic preparation methods requiring two to three days from raw duck to table, they’ve adapted by using Canadian maple ducks instead of traditional Peking ducks.

“There isn’t as much meat on Peking ducks,” Nguyen says, explaining that this ensures guests experience the signature crispy skin and ceremonial presentation while having plenty of succulent meat.

For the Chen family, it’s not just about serving a dish — it’s about preserving a tradition that connects families with ancient methods and brings people together for a truly special experience.

Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply want to experience one of the world’s great culinary achievements, Peking duck offers a connection to centuries of Chinese culinary artistry. In a world of fast food and quick meals, this dish reminds us that some meals are worth waiting for — and worth celebrating.

Kwok’s Bistro
275 West St., Reno
775-507-7270 · Kwoksbistro.com