Lemon + Salt = Magic
Preserved lemons add a sweet, salty citrus pop to dishes.
Story first appeared in edible San Fernando Valley’s Summer 2023 edition
Several years ago, we had a great problem: lemon trees that were too prolific. So after giving scads away; making lemonade, lemon bars, and baked chicken; and freezing the juice, we still had lemons. Lots of them. We had to find more ways to use our bounty before they went to waste.
Making preserved lemons was the answer; same for Thomas Tilaka Kalb, executive chef and co-owner of Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery in Pasadena, Calif.
“I find myself making large batches of preserved lemons, Meyer lemons, and limes about twice a year,” Kalb says. “Neighbors, regulars, and family members all start to roll by the restaurant with big bags of citrus, plucked from the trees in their yards. I love taking that opportunity to expand our larder with these gems.”
To make preserved lemons, fill a glass jar with quartered fresh lemons mixed with salt and lemon juice, and then let it hang out for a month. During the lactic acid fermenting process, the rind softens and becomes silky. It develops a salty, intense lemony flavor that’s acidic but not overly sour.
“Plemons,” as Kalb calls them, “combine the ability to add not only acid and salt, but an umami and agrodolce [an Italian tart-sweet condiment] flavor profile, where the combination of both aspects becomes greater than the sum of its parts.”
Described as “sunshine in a jar,” preserved lemons are commonly used in Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and Moroccan dishes, though they are versatile enough to extend well beyond these borders.
At Agnes, they provide “a sweet and salty citrus pop to salads, sauces, and pastas,” Kalb says, calling out the restaurant’s spaghetti and clams (see recipe at Ediblesfvalley.com). We’ve also been known to slip them into chicken piccata, pesto sauce, and vegetable soups. For more ideas, look to recipes where lemon or vinegar is used.
Recipes typically specify using the rind, rinsed before adding. The pulp is sourer and saltier and has more structure, so we reserve it for puréed dishes where less is more. We’ll spoon some of the brine into dishes for an extra pop of flavor, too.
But don’t stop there. Add another dimension to the flavor with aromatics. Use savory additions such as rosemary or thyme springs, whole peppercorns, fresh or dried chili peppers, cinnamon sticks or cardamom pods, alone or in combination. This isn’t an exhaustive list, so feel free to drop in other spices or ingredients near the beginning of the fermentation process.
We’re also seeing preserved lemons pop up more and more in sweet preparations, where they’re surprisingly good. When puréed with sugar, they bring a sweet-lemony zip to dessert doughs and batters. (Check out our take with the blueberry-preserved lemon muffin recipe, below.)
Whether savory or sweet, preserved lemons are a simple, cost-effective DIY project. Plus, they help reduce food waste and waste in general when you use whole lemons or the rinds of juiced lemons.
If you’re pressed for time, you can buy jarred preserved lemons at specialty stores and Middle Eastern grocers. Either way, we encourage you to do what we do: Keep a jar of preserved lemons in your refrigerator so you always have them handy. They’ll last a year when refrigerated, but we think you’ll go through them much faster than that.
Like Kalb, we don’t limit ourselves to preserving only lemons. If you looked in our refrigerators, you’d see preserved Meyer lemons, limes, tangerines, thin-skinned oranges, and even kumquats. Use these alternative citruses the same way you would use preserved lemons.
Next time you find yourself with extra lemons — or other citrus — preserve them. That way, you can squeeze more deliciousness from your meals at any time. All you need are lemons and salt. And a sprinkling of patience.
Top 5 Tips for Preserved Lemon Success
- Source organic lemons, or other citrus, from farmers’ markets or friends’ backyards.
- Avoid fruit from grocery stores, unless sourced from reliable farmers over the hill, because the rind often is waxed for a shine.
- Use kosher salt or fine sea salt; steer clear of iodized salt.
- Make sure the fruit is immersed in lemon juice at all times to prevent mold.
- A bit of white mold at the top is OK; remove it and use the rest. If there is a lot of white mold or mold of a different color, discard the batch. When in doubt, throw it out.
- Bonus: When making preserved citrus, you can add some orange juice to sweeten the brine. Just be sure the liquid still has a sour, tart, and acidic flavor, which inhibits bacterial growth. To be precise, that’s at a pH of 4.5 or below.
Ingredients
- 6 to 8 lemons preferably organic
- 6 to 8 tablespoons kosher salt such as Diamond Crystal brand
- 1 cup lemon juice about enough to cover the lemons in the jar after 1 week
- Aromatics of choice such as peppercorns, thyme, and rosemary
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
Instructions
- Sterilize a 1-quart glass canning jar by either running it through the dishwasher or under very hot water, or use an Instant Pot with the steamer rack.
- Cut 2 slits in each lemon to create a well to put in salt, being careful not to slice all the way through. (If you do, no big deal; quartered lemons will still work.)
- Add about 1 tablespoon of kosher salt to each lemon to cover the flesh.
- Pack lemons tightly in the glass jar. Close jar, and let it sit in a cool, dry place for about a week. You’ll notice juice beginning to accumulate in the jar. After 1 week, open jar; add aromatics of choice, if using.
- Completely cover lemons (and optional aromatics) with lemon juice. Close lid and let jar rest for 3 or 4 more weeks. Occasionally shake it to distribute the salt.
- When preserved lemons are ready, top jar with a thin layer of olive oil. You can store them for a year in the fridge. Make sure to always keep the lemons submerged in lemon juice.
Notes
Ingredients
- 1½ tablespoons lime zest
- ⅔ cup sugar
- 6 tablespoons butter room temperature
- 2 large eggs
- ⅓ cup Sweet Preserved Lemon Purée recipe below
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 2 cups flour
- ½ cup milk
- 1½ cups blueberries fresh or frozen
- ¼ cup crystalized sugar optional
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Lightly coat cups of a 12-cup muffin tin with cooking oil spray (or use muffin cup liners or silicone cups).
- Add lime zest and sugar to a small bowl. With your fingers, rub zest into sugar to infuse sugar with lime flavor. In a large bowl, vigorously stir butter and lime zest sugar with a wooden spoon until the mixture is well combined. Add eggs one at a time, stirring after each until eggs are thoroughly incorporated. Add lemon purée and stir to combine.
- Combine baking powder and flour in a small bowl and add flour mixture to sugar-butter mixture, alternating with milk, stirring after each addition until nearly combined.
- Fold in blueberries until combined. Scoop ⅓ cup of batter into each muffin cup (or use an ice cream scoop). Sprinkle each muffin with 1 teaspoon of crystallized sugar, if using.
- Bake for about 30 minutes, or until muffin edges are browned and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into muffin. (Start checking the muffins at 25 minutes.)
- Cool on a baking rack for 10 minutes. Remove muffins and let cool completely.
- Store in an airtight container or freeze for longer storage.
Ingredients
- ½ cup preserved lemon rind and brine discard flesh
- ½ cup granulated sugar
- ½ teaspoon olive oil
- ½ to 1 teaspoon lemon juice
Instructions
- Add lemon rind and brine to bowl of a small food processor and pulse a few times to break down rind. Add remaining ingredients and pulse to purée. Mixture can be left slightly chunky or puréed until smooth.
- Store purée in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
More From This Issue
Let the Sunshine In
A burst of fragrant blossoms and tangy juice in the middle of a Reno-Tahoe cold, snowy winter sounds like a…What’s In Season
Ripe and ready produce growing in the Reno-Tahoe region (weather dependent).
