THE SHARPENING CRAFT
Tim Kirk rescues kitchen essentials.
CALLING ALL FRUGAL FOODIES
Learn to eat well on a budget.
WINTER HERB
Sterling Farms offers basil year-round.
CULINARY ENTHUSIASTS
Gathering ’round for wine and food.
OFF THE WALL
The Row is a food adventure.
THE SHARPENING CRAFT
Tim Kirk rescues kitchen essentials.
WRITTEN BY AMY HARRIS
PHOTO BY JACI GOODMAN
Hearty root crops such as beets, carrots, potatoes, parsnips, and turnips characterize meals during the cold season. They’re often roasted and caramelized in the oven, filling the house with a sweet, rich smell. They also require a lot of chopping. And root vegetables, as well as the onion and garlic that often accompany them, quickly reduce a sharp kitchen blade into a dull butter knife. Fortunately, there is a better solution to fixing dull blades than reaching for the long, strange steel-sharpening rod in the knife block.
Tim Kirk, owner of Intrepid Edgeworks in Reno, sharpens abused knives right in people’s kitchens. He also teaches knife owners how to properly sharpen and care for their knives, and this usually means abandoning steel sharpening rods and eclectic sharpeners.
“The people with knives in the worst conditions are the ones who bought electric sharpeners,” Kirk says. “The machines scratch the hell out of them and don’t even put on that great of an edge.”
Instead of steel, Kirk uses a honing and leather compound. He also employs a special, slow-spinning wheel made in Denmark instead of high-speed equipment.
Sharpening blades is Kirk’s craft, one he’s practiced for more than 20 years. Whether it’s haircutting shears, surgical tools, or, most commonly, culinary knives, he applies his skill and traditional knowledge in a way a machine cannot.
“It’s a craft and it takes craftsmanship,” Kirk says. “Real craftsmanship is knowing your tools and knowing how to apply yourself to those tools.”
In addition to making house calls to sharpen knives, Kirk teaches knife sharpening classes and manufactures personalized high-carbon steel knives with his business partner, Robert Harbin. Harbin and Kirk create knives from specific archaeological eras using artwork and historical data. Harbin manufactures the knives in his garage and Kirk puts the edge on them at his home shop.
Education is an important part of Kirk’s business.
“When I teach, I show people how to maintain proper knife shape,” Kirk says. “There are a lot of machines out there made to do something, but they take the craftsmanship out of it and are often more destructive than helpful.”
To make an appointment with Kirk, call him at 775-232-9669 or contact him on his Intrepid Edgeworks Facebook page or visit www.Intrepidedgeworks.com. For details on classes, visit www.The-woodworking-source.com
Amy Harris is a passionate foodie who chops a lot of root vegetables and pumpkins during the cold months. After months of frustration over her dull knives, she is grateful for Tim Kirk’s expertise.
CALLING ALL FRUGAL FOODIES
Learn to eat well on a budget.
WRITTEN BY YULIYA PATSAY
If you like to eat food you’ve no doubt been noticing (and lamenting) the rising cost of groceries. The U.S. Department of Agriculture estimates that food prices will rise another 3 percent to 4 percent this year. So what are food-loving folk to do?
Follow the following steps to become a frugal foodie. Even if you live on a tight budget you can afford to eat well.
Start by cooking your meals at home with fresh and as close to whole (unprocessed) ingredients as possible. (There is a widespread misconception that junk and fast foods are cheaper than real food. But the average cost to feed a family of four at McDonald’s is roughly $28. You can do it cheaper and healthier at home.) If you don’t already know how to cook, investing in some basic cooking skills will help you be more confident and stretch your dollar in the kitchen. For details, check out Nothingtoit.com.
It also pays to plan ahead. There is little worse than stocking your fridge full of beautiful groceries only to throw them out wilted and unused weeks later. You can use a site such as Foodonthetable.com to help you make the most of every rice and bean.
Finally, learn to utilize all of your ingredients. For example, you can roast a chicken, pan fry any giblets that come with it, debone it and use the bones to make a stock. Then use that stock to cook soups, stews, and chili, which are all perfect for the colder weather.
Other ideas:
– Eat in season, or better yet join a local community supported agriculture program. For a listing of local CSAs, click on the Resources tab
– Make your own bread Eat at least one meatless meal a week Make your own sauces, marinades, and dressings
– Host a dinner prep and swap, an event where you get together and cook several servings of one meal and then swap with the participants
– Stick with inexpensive sources of protein when possible (eggs, mackerel, sardines, ground beef, chicken, or turkey)
– Buy staples such as rice, beans, and pasta in bulk
– Think about growing your own food, start with an herb garden (see related story in Edible Garden section)
– Consider canning
Yuliya Patsay is a self-proclaimed frugal foodie. Her biggest food save is participating in the Great Basin Basket CSA program. Her biggest food splurge is grass-fed beef. When not eating, she photographs food for her blog Shesuggests.com
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS
Roasted Chicken in a Clay Pot
Whole chicken
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Herbs (thyme, parsley, rosemary), optional
DIRECTIONS
Remove chicken from refrigerator at least 30 minutes prior to cooking (optional). Remove gizzards. Pat chicken dry with paper towel. Rub chicken with olive oil, salt, pepper, and herbs (optional). Place in the clay pot and cover. Place clay pot directly into 450 degree F preheated oven. Cook for one hour. Cover and leave in the oven for an additional 15 to 20 minutes. Make sure the internal temperature of the chicken is at least 165 degrees F.
WINTER HERB
Sterling Farms offers basil year-round.
WRITTEN BY AMY HARRIS
PHOTO BY CANDICE NYANDO
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| Jeannie Damonte, owner of Sterling Farms, grows basil and other produce year-round in her hydroponic facility in Reno. She uses a variety of ecologically sustainable alternatives to soil, including ground up stone, coconut, and clay pebbles |
On her way home from work Jeannie Damonte drove by Anything Grows Hydroponic in Reno. Huge, flourishing plants illuminated the windows under bright grow lights. As Damonte’s frustration with Reno’s characteristically short growing season intensified, the plants in the window provided a suggestion for a different approach to gardening, one with a year-round season and highly productive plants.
With help from Anything Grows, and plenty of reading and research, Damonte started growing basil hydroponically in her barn.
“I started with basil because it’s hard to kill,” Damonte says. “Basil grows really well here and I always liked to grow it when I was little. It’s a good plant to start with.”
Through word of mouth, Damonte’s project grew beyond the scope of her 1,000-square-foot barn. Since May she has leased a 4,000-square-foot warehouse where the sweet, green smell of basil permeates the air and plants from seedling stage to maturity line multiple tables on two stories. She’s also growing eggplant, tomatoes, and peppermint for Pathways Café in Reno.
Damonte provides basil to several local pizza parlors and restaurants and also sells bunches at the Great Basin Community Food Co-op in Reno.
Damonte calls her basil growing a hobby, but the project that started in her barn keeps expanding. And she’s looking forward to growing hydroponic greens and other vegetables in the future with solar- or wind-powered lights.
“I never planned to primarily grow basil,” Damonte says. “It just kind of happened and I really love doing it.”
To get basil for yourself or your restaurant, call Damonte at 775-856-GROW (4769) or visit www.Sterlingfarmsreno.com.
Amy Harris is a passionate foodie and student at the University of Nevada, Reno. She loves the smell of fresh basil and garnishes many of her favorite dishes with the herb
CULINARY ENTHUSIASTS
Gathering ’round for wine and food.
WRITTEN BY ANN LINDEMANN
PHOTO BY CANDICE NYANDO
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| Members of the International Wine and Food Society (including, from left, Barbara Lichter, founder and secretary; Janet Pahl, vice president in charge of functions; Jim Barnes, past cellar master; and Mike Chamberlain, president) gather outside their exclusive underground wine cellar in northwest Reno |
Do you count the days until your next pilgrimage to wine country? And do you love discussing the merits of different culinary styles with like-minded foodie friends? You aren’t alone, according to Barbara Lichter, secretary of the International Wine and Food Society, Lake Tahoe branch. Although the club’s membership limit is 125 people, the club currently squeezes in 127 members and has a waiting list to boot.
In 1996 Barbara and her husband Ron — a past president of the Honolulu branch — discovered that many of their Incline Village friends shared their love of food and wine and the Lake Tahoe branch was born.
“This is a private club that is affiliated with the national and international groups,” Lichter says. “We have a cap of 125 because the majority of our events are held at private homes. New members need to be sponsored by existing members. We are looking for people who love, appreciate, and value food and wine.”
Lichter also is quick to correct anyone who flip-flops the organization’s name.
“Wine always comes first!” she notes.
Indeed, a large chunk of new members’ dues go to maintaining the society’s private wine cellar in Reno. The expansive underground cellar houses some 1,500 bottles of wine. Lichter says the club purchases wines when they are affordable and then allows them to age properly. When perfectly aged, the wine then is served at one of the eight annual society functions.
In addition to the catered events held at members’ homes, the society also takes to the road for annual wine country getaways.
“The International Wine and Food Society used to be a very formal, black-tie, male-only kind of group,” Lichter says. “But now it’s composed of mostly couples who enjoy being with other folks who share their interest in wine and food.”
For details, visit www.Iwfstahoe.org.
Wine- and food-loving Ann Lindemann is a frequent contributor to edible Reno-Tahoe and a variety of other regional and national publications.
OFF THE WALL
The Row is a food adventure.
WRITTEN BY BARBARA TWITCHELL
PHOTO BY FRANK HAXTON
Let’s dispense with the obvious. At first blush, CommRow is all about The Wall. And why not? This newest addition to the downtown scene, billed as Reno’s First Urban Adventure Destination, does boast reputedly the world’s tallest climbing wall. That distinction, alone, demands top billing.
This massive, 164-foot climbing wall runs up the outside of CommRow’s building, mere inches from the renowned Reno Arch. And on any given day you can crane your neck and see human spiders defying gravity as they work their way up the color-coded climbing routes. Well, it’s hard not to talk about The Wall. It is darn impressive.
But let’s face it, how many of us are actually going to scale that wall? Food, well, that’s another matter. We all eat. And, fortunately for those of us who may prefer to keep our feet on terra firma, much of the adventure at CommRow is off the wall, both literally and figuratively.
Once you step inside the doors, food is the main attraction. Eleven eclectic eateries and bars comprise what is called The Row. All but two of these are on the first floor of this daring new project that defies Reno’s gaming tradition with its no-smoking, no-gambling, family-friendly, pet-friendly policies.
Patterned after the European street market concept, these micro-kitchens and bars fill the expansive space with a kaleidoscope of sights, sounds, and smells. Each station or vignette has its own character with a small but distinctive menu to match. Original, authentic, and affordable are the words the culinary staff tries to live by.
You can wander through The Row and enjoy a traditional Italian beef dip sandwich, just like the Chicagoans do, au jus happily dripping down your chin. Or you might delight to the sight of a flaming saganaki, a fiery Greek cheese crisp of sorts. How about sinking your teeth into a maple bacon donut? TarTarBar offers a delectable assortment of — what else? Tartares, of course. You can even have yours with Champagne. That is unless you prefer one of the wild and fabulous signature cocktails such as Jalé Berry, made with vodka, blackberry, and jalapeño syrup. So, limited though they may be, these food and beverage menus are anything but ordinary. And at a price point of about $7 for most food options, you can afford to be as adventurous as you’d like.
“The food is really fun … and unlike anything else,” says Marketing Director Larry DeVincenzi. “I think we are doing some things that will blow people’s minds. Add the fun of bar and restaurant hopping — ha! Awesome!”
Physical and culinary adventures, family-friendly atmosphere, and an emphasis on fun — that seems to be what this place is all about.
So get ready, Reno. CommRow aims to kick things up a notch — both on and off The Wall.
Reno writer Barbara Twitchell is pretty sure you will never catch her up on The Wall. She admits to having sidled up to various counters on The Row more than a few times, however.
RECIPE
Saganaki
(courtesy of CommRow, serves 4 as appetizer)
INGREDIENTS
Seasoning mix
2 teaspoons dried basil
½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried mint
1 teaspoon white sesame seeds
Pinch cayenne pepper
4- to 3-ounce piece of Greek cheese (Kefalotyri , Kasser, or Haloumi) cut into ½-inch blocks
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons Ouzo or brandy
Fresh lemon wedges
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Serve with grilled pita
DIRECTIONS
Combine all ingredients for seasoning mix and set aside.
Heat heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan over high heat and add vegetable oil. When oil begins to shimmer, carefully add cheese in a single layer. Don’t move pieces until you notice edges touching pan have reached a nice golden brown. This should take just more than a minute.
Flip pieces of cheese and continue to cook for another full minute. The trick is to have both sides of cheese well browned and middle just melted. If cheese is too thick, or sides brown too fast, inside of cheese will remain cold and crumbly. Sprinkle seasoning mix liberally over cheese at this time.
Pull pan away from fire and pour brandy or Ouzo over (apparently the jury is still out on which one is more “authentic”) and then return to fire and tip pan towards open flame so evaporating alcohol fumes ignite. If working on an electric stovetop, have a lighter or long match handy.
As soon as flame has extinguished, cheese is ready to serve. Turn cheese out onto a warmed plate. Finish presentation with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and scattering of chopped parsley.
Serve with warm grilled pita or your favorite garlic bread.
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Working Your Way up The Row CommRow is located at 255 N. Virginia St., Reno 775-398-5400 Checkout Freshly roasted coffees, blooming teas, and pastries Da Stand Authentic Chicago-style sandwiches: Italian beef, sausage and peppers Qué Mexican street market food: assorted tacos and gorditas Lemóni Mediterranean cuisine: lamb gyros, Greek fries, saganaki, and tabouli TarTarBar Fresh raw fish, beef, and vegetarian preparations; sparkling libations Twisted DIY soft-serve ice cream with self-serve toppings galore; bulk candy Lucky Lane Lounge Premium American whiskeys, fine beers, and old-school cocktails Órale Tequila (125 kinds!), margaritas, and Mexican beer Centric Cabaret featuring live entertainment Up Fresh, handmade, high-energy power foods, juices, and smoothies V15 Full bar, fine wine, draft beer, with boulder-side seating |
