chef’s table
OVER THE MOON
Devouring progressive cuisine at 6,225 feet.
WRITTEN BY SANDRA MACIAS
PHOTOS BY CHRIS STOWELL
S ee that luminous light glowing on Incline Village’s culinary horizon? It is Jack Rabbit Moon. One small step on this moon means one gigantic leap into a delectable world of creative, handcrafted food.
An evening dining at Jack Rabbit Moon stars “American-contemporary cuisine with flairs of the world” — as Chef/Owner Amy Simpson describes her food — and dazzling wines, handpicked by Libation Manager David Eisenstark.
“We think the wine list is about the coolest thing around,” says Eisenstark who changes it frequently And one of the coolest things is most bottles can be opened for a two-glass pour.
| Amy Simpson, chef/owner of Jack Rabbit Moon |
Jack Rabbit Moon isn’t exactly new to Incline Village. Opened in 1995, it was a popular restaurant, distinguished for its food — as well as the gigantic vegetable murals on its walls. But Simpson sold (the space, not the name) in 2000 to pursue real estate interests in San Francisco.
As it turned out, Simpson’s talents were where she left them. Returning to Incline Village to reincarnate Jack Rabbit Moon, she reopened in October 2009, in a new location.
“This time around I thought I would do something entirely new and progressive with the space,” she says.
SNUG SPACE
This Jack Rabbit Moon glows in warm monochromatic, moonbeamish tones of latte, toffee, and cream. A white marble bar – accommodating diners and drinkers alike — dominates the dining room. Banquet seating and a few tables fill the rest of the room while sand-colored window shades enclose the understated space.
Seating is limited to 36 (summer patio dining adds 16 more, but reservations are strongly advised in any season). Even when the place is packed and humming, you don’t feel crowded, but part of the lively scene.
The menu, which changes every couple of months, offers no more than seven starters and seven entrées. Tough decisions lie ahead: Everything sounds good.
Simpson has a knack for combining flavors you’d never think of and allowing the food to speak for itself. She is skillful at adding just the right thing — aromatic herbs, flavor-infused olive oils, interesting sauces — to intensify the depth of flavors. Food coming out of her kitchen is freshly made, using organic produce and sustainable fish and meat, and prepared expertly.
A tomato ginger soup, served this fall, was dense in concentrated layers of flavor. The first spoonful, rich in condensed smoky sweetness of roasted tomatoes, was pure pleasure. The ginger, secretive at first, slowly released a gentle heat and the goat cheese crostini embellishment added contrasting crunch.
The wild Alaskan halibut was another standout. The fish, pan roasted to delicate perfection within, rested on a bed of white bean purée studded with olives and sweet multicolored grape tomatoes. A moat of preserved lemon vinaigrette, circling the carefully constructed dish, added a tangy finale.
WINTER CHOICES
Expect the winter menu to be just as classy. One item, a constant on the menu, is Jack Rabbit Moon’s signature Caesar salad. The dressing, tangy with the punch of lemon and garlic, laces through immaculately crisp baby romaine leaves. Scattered slivers of Parmesan and a few croutons finish the presentation. Each ingredient stands on its own in flavor and texture.
On the winter menu you’ll find pork chops paired with red wine-braised cabbage and topped off with grainy mustard sauce and crisp bacon and sautéed apples. Or steak and frites dressed up in a green peppercorn cognac sauce. The braised lamb shank, a signature winter dish, shares company with large white cannellini beans, roasted root vegetables, and sautéed spinach, drizzled with balsamic glaze. And always, you will find a fresh fish-of-the-day specialty.
End the evening with strong coffee and Jack Rabbit Moon’s signature dessert: doughnut holes with chocolate dipping sauce. Happy and deliciously full, you’ll dream of Nirvana tonight.
Sandra Macias, a veteran Reno-based food writer and long-time foodista, has been a Jack Rabbit Moon fan since its earlier days. Loving its catchy name, she asked how it came about. Seems Chef Amy, on a road trip through Utah years ago, saw the shape of a jackrabbit on the face of a full moon. No wonder her food is so imaginative, too.
Jack Rabbit Moon
893 Tahoe Blvd., Incline Village
775-833-3900
5:30 p.m., Wed. – Sun. for dinner
9 a.m. for Sunday brunch through March
RECIPE
Creamy cauliflower soup with Gruyère and pesto croutons
(4 servings)
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium white onions thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
4 garlic gloves minced
1 cup dry white wine
2 heads cauliflower
1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
2 cups chicken stock
2 cups heavy whipping cream
DIRECTIONS
Sauté onions, garlic, and salt for five minutes over medium heat.
Deglaze with white wine and cook until evaporated. Add stock, cream, and cauliflower and simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Purée in blender until smooth and silky. Season with salt and pepper to taste. If too thick, thin with more stock. While still hot blend in 1 cup Gruyère cheese.
Pesto croutons
Slice a baguette into half-inch cubes and toss lightly with olive oil. Bake at 350 degrees F for 15 minutes until crisp. Right before service, toss with favorite pesto and garnish the soup. Finish with chopped chive and drizzle with olive oil.
